Where is your flasher relay 2003 Honda Odyssey?

Answer 1

The Honda Factory Service Manual for The Odyssey has this to say:

Page 22-86 says: 1. Write down the anti-theft codes for the radio. 2. Disconnect the battery negative cable, then positive cable, then wait at least 3 min. 3. Remove the driver's dashboard lower cover (See page 20-69). 4. Remove the door sill molding and left kick panel (See page 20-58). 5. Disconnect the connectors on the fuse side of the driver's fuse/relay box. 6. Remove the mounting bolt release clips (C) at the middle on both sides of the box, and pull the fuse/relay box away from the body. 7. Disconnect the driver's under-dash fuse/relay box connectors, and remove the box.

(I note that #6 should mention to remove the very visible single 10mm nut holding the box in place.)

Then, Page 22-136 says: 1. Remove the driver's under-dash fuse/relay box (see page 22-86). 2. Remove the turn signal/hazard relay (A) from the driver's side under-dash fuse/relay box (B).

I wish I could give you pictures. Basically, on the left wall of the driver's foot compartment there's a gray box with connectors & fuses visible, kind of behind the parking brake pedal. This is the "driver's under-dash fuse/relay box", and it's held on by one nut and a whole bunch of wires, which are in turn restrained by the kick panel, which is held in place by a trim nut and the driver's door molding. The turn signal relay is on the back side of the "driver's under-dash fuse/relay box" - looks to be the only relay-looking black "module" with three connectors on the back side. Note, the FSM has warnings about "Supplemental Restraint System components" all over the place - meaning watch what you jolt or short-circuit or you risk blowing the airbag.

The FSM has a nice troubleshooting table, but basically, if the 7.5 amp Fuse #10 on the "Driver's under-dash fuse/relay box" isn't blown, and if the 15a Fuse #49 on the under-hood fuse-relay box isn't blown, it's either a bad ground or broken wire somewhere, or the relay. Full troubleshooting is always best, but the relay is comparatively cheap, about $30 online, so that's the risk of not troubleshooting beyond checking the fuses.

A note on difficulty level: I've been working for more than an hour and still haven't gotten the "driver's under-dash fuse/relay box" loose yet. I'm a very experienced amateur mechanic, and it's just a matter of time and patience, but so far it's been a booger. Good luck.