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What engine you have doesn't matter.. what transmission you have does.
Lining worn to to improper use? Rear engine seal leaking on clutch? Improper adjustment?
Your adjustment isn't on the pedal, it's an adjusting nut on the end of the cable on the transmission. If the adjustment on the "engine" (do you actually mean the cable on the transmission?) is out all the way, then it is time for a new clutch. Just read the listings on here for clutch removal. It should only take about 30 minutes unless you are a complete idiot, then it will be about 12 hours.
There is NO adjustment on that year. You either have a BAD Clutch slave cylinder are the clutch and pressure plate is worn out.
Sounds like your clutch is faulty or it may need adjustment.
When you engage the clutch and the engine sits there spinning: it get's no traction OR when there is no pressure on the clutch pedal: pressing it changes nothing.
On the 94, the clutch gable goes through the firewall at the top on the drivers side of the engine compartment. The adjustment is where the cable meets the firewall.
Does it go into gear with the engine off? If so, I'd be suspicious of the clutch adjustment.
rotate engine until adjuster is on the bottom through the hole on the bottom of the bell housing,wedge something between the seat and clutch pedal it has to be pushed down to turn the adjuster
The clutch cable which runs from the top of the firewall on the drivers side loops around in front and below the engine to a bracket on the passenger side of transmission. there is an adjustment nut there.
Crank the engine over until you see the adjustment bolt on the clutch in the bell housing. Now while depressing the clutch pedal, push in the adjusting bolt and turn it clockwise to add free play and counter clockwise to remove free play. For safety purposes you should use the access hole under the bottom of the bell housing to gain access to the flywheel. Then use a large flat head screwdriver to turn the flywheel to gain proper access to the adjustment bolt. Not all pressure plates have this adjusting bolt. Early models have a bolt and lock. Remove lock and turn ring to adjust clutch. Proper adjustment will be achieved when you have 3/8"-1/2" clearance between the clutch brake disc and the clutch release bearing. Once this dimension is achieved and not until, you can adjust your linkage for free play. If your clutch was properly adjusted when first installed achieving the correct distance between the clutch brake and the release bearing will be the only adjustment necessary, assuming no unusual wear in the linkage! These earlier clutches require a special tool for ease of the adjustment procedure, it can be done with patience and an assortment of pry bars, but the proper tool is the cats meow. By all means do not start the engine and depress the clutch prior to replacing the lock and lock bolt! This over sight will cause the adjusting ring to move to its full extreme and you will have to begin again.
I'm not a mechanic / technician but a 1996 Ford Ranger has a hydraulic clutch ( the clutch fluid reservoir is in the engine compartment on the drivers side , by the power distribution box ) so as far as I know there is no adjustment like there is on a cable operated clutch