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The caliper bolts are the long bolts that go horizontally from one side of the mounting bracket, through the top and bottom of the caliper, to the other side of the mounting bracket(if the caliper is supported inside and outside of the rotor, which all the ones I've seen are). The caliper slides on the caliper bolts to adjust to the rotorand usually has expanding dust boots around the boltson both sides of the caliper tokeep the sliding area clean.
bad proportioning valve, stuck caliper or a restricted brake hose or line. i would check the sliding pins to the caliper first
The caliper will be ruined and the measurement will be wrong.
The brake caliper or the sliding rail for the caliper may seize up. You should take out and lube the sliding rail on every brake job. This seem to be the most common problem. Try to relube and see if it will fix the problem.
You have to remove the brake caliper before you can remove the brake pads. I recommend you use a piece of wire and tie the caliper up to the spring to hold it. Now that the rotor is out of the way, you can remove them by sliding them out.
Jack up front end, remove wheels. Use Allen wrench or Allen socket to remove 2 pins holding caliper on . Remove caliper by sliding it off the rotor. Remove pads from caliper. Press piston back into caliper with c clamp. Replace pads, reinstall caliper and pins.
Remove wheelsPound out 2 sliding pins on the upper and lower side of the caliperSlide caliper off rotorUse a "C" clamp to fully retract piston into caliper bodyReplace brake pads inner and outerSlide caliper onto rotorPound sliding pins back into caliperPUMP BRAKE PEDAL TO SET PADS AGAINST ROTOR PRIOR TO MOVING VEHICLE
a small cm ruler An effective method to measure a fingernail would be to use a sliding caliper
You can used a 3/8 or 1/4 ratchet extension to knock out the pin that hold caliper in place. the pin should be about 3 or 4 in. long. Make sure you lube the pin before you reinstall it, i believe it also served as a sliding pin for the caliper.
Only hold the caliper by the handle or by an thermal insulating pad (if one exists) to avoid the metal expanding due to the heat of your fingersOpen the caliper by turning the handle so that it has a gap larger that what you want to measurePut what you want to measure in the gapCarefully tighten the gap until the object hardly slips between the anvils (there may be a friction knob at the end of the handle for this purpose)Read the measurementOpen the caliper, place it in its carrying box
- Raise vehicle - Remove wheels - Open fliud resevior (for pressure relief) - Use large Apex (I believe 10mm) and remove 2 sliding pin bolts holding caliper on - Remove caliper ( you may have to use a large screwdriver to pry pad back into caliper) - Remove pads - Use suitable tool to return piston back into caliper - Install new pads and hang caliper out of the way with some wire. - Pull rotor off. Rotors are not bolted on the spindle. If tight use rubber mallet (it may be rusted on) - Replace rotor - Inspect and/or lube sliding pin bolts. If they are bad or dry then you will have poor braking and premature pad wear. About $10 to replace - Install caliper and bolt into place - Repeat - Install wheels - Replace resevior cap
There are two mounting bolts for the caliper and two mounting bolts for the pad/caliper bracket assembly. Remove the two smaller ones and remove the caliper. Hang this from the coil of the strut using a bungee or heavy wire. Do not hang by the brake line alone! Remove the larger bolts and remove the bracket, sliding it away from the rotor. This unit holds the pads, remove them. Using one of the old pads placed in front of the piston of the caliper, compress the piston with a large c-clamp. Install new pads in bracket, they will snap into place. Reinstall the bracket and the two large bolts. Reinstall the caliper sliding it over the brake pads. Reinstall the two smaller bolts. 'Pump' brake pedal after starting car and before placing car into gear.