While Voltage and Resistance typically remain constant in incandescent lamps: P (Power in Watts) = I (Current in Amperes) times E (Electrostatic energy in Volts [AC and DC]).
P=I*E - when P (Watts) goes up so does I (Amps).
You are incorrect to describe voltage and current as being 'characteristics' of incandescent lamps, or any other type of load come to that. Voltage is a characteristic the supply, not by the lamp, while the load current is determined by the power of the lamp which, again, is determined by the supply voltage.
A lamp (in fact any type of load) is rated according to the voltage at which it is designed to operate, together with the power it will develop at that voltage. For example, '60 W at 230 V'.
A lamp's rated power will only be achieved at its rated voltage. If a voltage below its rated voltage is applied to the lamp, then its resulting power will fall significantly -one of the reasons why utility companies are required to maintain their supply voltages between mandatory limits.
It is Ohm's law in its truest form. Current is directionally proportional to the voltage and inversely proportional to the resistance in the circuit. As the voltage goes up so does the current because the resistance remains constant. If different lamps had different resistances then the current would be inverse, meaning the higher the resistance became the lower the current would become. The lower the resistance in the bulb became the higher the current would become. I = E/R, R = E/I.
As the voltage changes the current changes too to deliver the rated power
do amps get pushed? Normally a 1200 watt amp would need driving with less than 12 watts of audio.
The load size in watts is what determines the size of UPS needed. Add up all of the load wattages that you would like to have an uninterrupted power supply. Some UPS units are rated in VA output, for the purposes of this calculation VA is the same as watts. There are many UPS calculators on line if you need any help deciding what to connect to it. Remember the larger the UPS the more the cost is going to be. Read the discuss page for calculator.
There is no electrical reason why this can not be done. Just remember that increasing wattage will add more draw to the circuit. If the circuit that the fixture is on has other loads, the circuit could be overloaded and may trip the breaker.
3 watts to 125 watts.
- S2 starters for ignition of low-voltage fluorescent TL lamps and series/single application in high voltage for lower wattages (4 - 22W) - S10 starters for ignition of high voltage fluorescent TL lamps for wide range of wattages (4 - 65W)
If you put two incandescent bulbs of the same wattage in series, they will both light with the same intensity. If one is lower wattage than the other, the lower wattage bulb will light brighter than the oter one. If you put two 115 volt bulbs of the same wattage in series across 230 volts, both will light equally, but if you use dissimilar wattages, the smaller one will burn out.
Different sized sets have different wattages. Typically around 20 to 40 watts per set.
No. Just make sure that the ballast you use is rated for at least as many watts as the lighting you plan to operate with it.
Yes it should, however most flourescent ballast can serve different wattages check the label on the ballast case.
Only, and I DO stress ONLY if it provides the correct temperature ranges ! If not - you need to 'experiment' with different wattages to find the right bulb !
The filaments inside bulbs are different wattages. It is best to replace the dead bulb.
These use a large range of wattages, mostly thaey range from 700- 900 for medium sized microwaves and 900-1250 for a very large microwave.
There are two types of modern bulbs, CFL and LED and they are available in various wattages. While more expensive initially, there is tremendous energy savings over the extended life span.
H7 - 55 W @ 12.0 V, 1500 lm ±10% @ 13.2 V H9 - 65 W @ 12.0 V, 2100 lm ±10% @ 13.2 V Different wattages.