Incoming power goes through the main breaker to the lugs feeding all branch breakers/fuses. Shutting off the main breaker shuts off power to all other breakers/fuses downstream.
This may not match with NEC's definition. You should check that too.
ANSWERS * Because the national wiring codes and regulations say there has to be one
* to protect the incoming cables from the power supply grid from being overloaded if the building's power distribution panel suffers a major accident
* to help prevent a fire breaking out if one or more circuit breakers downstream of the main breaker should happen to fail to break circuit(s) because of a sudden accidental major overload so fierce that it causes those breaker(s) contacts to weld together.
In North America it is code regulations that a breaker or fused disconnect be installed between the utility supply and the customers distribution equipment. A main circuit breaker is a switch that is used to isolate the electrical utility supply from the customers service equipment. With this switch in place it allows maintenance to be preformed on the distribution panel in a de energized state.
The sizing of the breaker is governed by the wire size feeding the distribution panel. In new homes today the standard size of distribution is 200 amps.
In the 1940's this safety protection switch was not mandatory, which lead to great electrical damage to customers equipment if a fault occurred.
Transformers are usually over fused on the primary up to 300 to 400% so that if an occasional tree limb crossed the line to ground , the limb will most likely burn off and the utility company wouldn't have to come out and replace the fuse that opened.
Through calculations a 50 KVA transformer used for 200 amp services faulted line to line on the secondary there could be 12302 amps. The transformer primary, fused at 300 to 400 percent, could raise the amperage to 36906 to 49208 amps instaneous.
Yes you need to shut off the Main water valve. Usually found in the basement or outside the house near the meter. Also you need to shut off the Gas valve located at the water heater, or the Breaker located in the breaker box/ fuse panel. Sometimes the water heater will have its own Switch box, located on the power wire
Typically yes because that is what makes sense. However, the subpanel could have the same size breaker as long as the panel were rated for that amperage and the wire sizes were appropriate.
The "power" or amperage can only be increased by changing the service entrance. This includes the service cable outside, the meter socket, the cable coming into the house, and the circuit breaker panel. By example you could go from a 100 amp service to a 200 amp service. But you need to understand the reason why you think you need to upgrade. If your main breaker is tripping you may be pulling too many amps for the entire household. This can be determined by using an amprobe. But more likely you would have an individual circuit breaker tripping. Increasing your service amperage would not help this situation. This is an overload on a single circuit. You would need to lighten the load on that circuit itself.
16kv
You need to be more specific. Do you want a contact telling you if a circuit breaker is on? If that is your question, the answer depends on the model of the breaker.
No. Power to all the circuit breakers will be cut off except for the Main power breaker. The Main power breaker (which supplies power to all other breakers and will say 100, or whatever your max breaker box power is, on it )will have power going to it all the time, unless power is turned off outside the house.
check power coming into the breaker if both leads are hot it's a bad breaker
yes it is the main breaker
Nothing. If your system can run your house while the main breaker to the power grid is off, then back charging will occur as a byproduct while the main breaker to the power grid is on and you are using less power than you are generating. During times of a power outage, you'll want to cut the main breaker to the power grid, so that your system doesn't try to power the entire neighbor hood.
200 amps
The voltage before the breaker is from the distribution panel's buss bars. This voltage is controlled by the panel's main breaker. To have no voltage on the terminal of the breaker means that either the breaker is shut off or it has gone into a trip position. If it has tripped push the handle of the breaker to the off position and then to the on position. This should reset the breaker. If the voltage is not present at the output terminal of the breaker after resetting it, then replace the breaker as it has a fault in it.
No, a residential condo does not require a main breaker in each unit. Typically, the main breaker is located in the electrical room or utility room of the building, and it controls the power supply to all the units. Each unit may have individual circuit breakers, but a main breaker is not required in each unit.
The breaker will have a black wire connected to it. Turn off the main breaker and then disconnect that black wire from the breaker. The breaker will snap into the main bar. Remove the breaker and install the new one. Reconnect the black wire to the breaker and then install the cover and turn the main breaker back on.
Turning the breaker on allows the power to flow through to the outlets, lights, and appliances on that circuit, so yes power goes to and through a turned on breaker. If the breaker is off, but the main power is on, power still get to the breaker, usually from the bus bar that runs down the middle of the back of the breaker box.
Ideally you need two open breaker locations adjacent to each other. Install a 2-pole breaker to supply 120/240 volts. Rating of breaker should 50 A to subpanel. Do not bond neutral and ground in the subpanel.
I don't understand the question, please restate.
This is the type of reading that you would get with an open neutral.