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Answer 1I am not familiar with your particular model, but have had and maintained Ford products for at least 45 years. From your description of symptoms, the problem is basically the same for all brands, makes, and models.

The key is that the windows are power operated. ALL power window systems consist of three basic parts.

First naturally is a motor to supply the motive power. Second is a window in a track system which guides it. And the third part is some kind of linkage between the motor and the window.

I suspect that the problem you describe is related to some kind of disconnection of that linkage. Different makes and models use different types of linkage, but usually, Ford products use a rigid metal arm working off of a "gearbox" at the motor.

Regardless, the fix is to remove the inner trim panel on the door to allow observation and trouble shooting of the mechanical linkage. This may be hindered by the fact that most doors have a rigid metal inner panel which only has a few holes, through which you will be forced to work.

To better observe the window lift mechanism it is usually best to remove the motor, transmission and arm assembly from the door. Usually there are three heavy panhead screws holding this assembly in place.

Once the screws are removed, the assembly will want to fall down into the door cavity so be prepared to hold it in place after removal of the last screw.

The the assembly will have to be "jockeyed" around, with some twisting and sliding in order to separate the outer end of the arm from the bottom frame of the window. This connection is via a "button-like" connector at the end of the arm, which slides into a long slotted guide along the lower edge of the window.

As the assembly is being disconnected, and expecially after separation, the window assembly also is going to want for "fall down" inside the door, so be prepared to "freeze" the window assembly in the "UP" position using a wedge [something like a rubber or wooden doorstop] between the glass and the lower edge of the window opening.

Once the motor/gearbox assembly is out, you can reconnect the wire harness, turn the key on, and test the motor/gearbox assemby for function or failure. Another method is to use test lead jumper wires from the batery. If the operating motor does not move the arm, even as the motor works, the failure is inside the gearbox.

Inside the gearbox, there are three nylon cylinders [about 1/2 inch in diameter by 1/2 inch in length] which act as a safety linkage designed to "slip" if something [like an arm] is caught in the window while it is closing. Over time, these nylon cylinders can become embrittled, and begin to disintegrate, in effect, UNLINKING the arm from the motor.

Usually, the Ford dealer will have a repair kit which includes some parts for overhauling the gearbox. Replacement nylon cylinders will be included in the kit.

From here on, the job is just a matter of installing the new parts, cleaning and lubricating everything, and reassembling everything pulled out. Good luck.

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Q: Why does my window motor works but window does not go up and down on my 1985 grand marquis?
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