The key is that the windows are power operated. ALL power window systems consist of three basic parts.
First naturally is a motor to supply the motive power. Second is a window in a track system which guides it. And the third part is some kind of linkage between the motor and the window.
I suspect that the problem you describe is related to some kind of disconnection of that linkage. Different makes and models use different types of linkage, but usually, Ford products use a rigid metal arm working off of a "gearbox" at the motor.
Regardless, the fix is to remove the inner trim panel on the door to allow observation and trouble shooting of the mechanical linkage. This may be hindered by the fact that most doors have a rigid metal inner panel which only has a few holes, through which you will be forced to work.
To better observe the window lift mechanism it is usually best to remove the motor, transmission and arm assembly from the door. Usually there are three heavy panhead screws holding this assembly in place.
Once the screws are removed, the assembly will want to fall down into the door cavity so be prepared to hold it in place after removal of the last screw.
The the assembly will have to be "jockeyed" around, with some twisting and sliding in order to separate the outer end of the arm from the bottom frame of the window. This connection is via a "button-like" connector at the end of the arm, which slides into a long slotted guide along the lower edge of the window.
As the assembly is being disconnected, and expecially after separation, the window assembly also is going to want for "fall down" inside the door, so be prepared to "freeze" the window assembly in the "UP" position using a wedge [something like a rubber or wooden doorstop] between the glass and the lower edge of the window opening.
Once the motor/gearbox assembly is out, you can reconnect the wire harness, turn the key on, and test the motor/gearbox assemby for function or failure. Another method is to use test lead jumper wires from the batery. If the operating motor does not move the arm, even as the motor works, the failure is inside the gearbox.
Inside the gearbox, there are three nylon cylinders [about 1/2 inch in diameter by 1/2 inch in length] which act as a safety linkage designed to "slip" if something [like an arm] is caught in the window while it is closing. Over time, these nylon cylinders can become embrittled, and begin to disintegrate, in effect, UNLINKING the arm from the motor.
Usually, the Ford dealer will have a repair kit which includes some parts for overhauling the gearbox. Replacement nylon cylinders will be included in the kit.
From here on, the job is just a matter of installing the new parts, cleaning and lubricating everything, and reassembling everything pulled out. Good luck.
the fastest way t o rule out any relays is to get at the window motor and give it a tap with a small hammer. If the motor works after that then the problem is with the window motor. the window motor should then be replaced!!!!
Electric Window problemIf you haven't checked already, check to see if the window is in the track and not out of the track and then check the regulator to see if one or more teeth are broken or may have come disconnected. Hope that might help also sometimes the motor works but doesn't have enough strength to lift the window had that problem on my 1987 Nissan wagon had to rebuild the window motor. or if it is on track the cable linkig might have snapped my 95 did same on driver window
probably window regulator
you need a new belt for the motor to raise and lower the window you need a new belt for the motor to raise and lower the window
Check the wires to the window motor. The window motor may have a loose wire or the motor may need to be replaced.
tripometer doesn't work either.
the wiper motor is a basicly a relay switch with low mwdium and high and everything but high is burned out and if it works on high and shuts off you need a new wiper motor.
i also have a 98 grand marquee try filling up with premium gas works for me
THIS IS ALL I HAVE, MABE IT WILL GET THE BALL ROLLING FOR YOU..BUT YES GET A USED MOTOR IF NOTHING ELSE WORKS. YOU GONNA NEED THAT WINDOW.. lower window to down position(if you can) remove door panel remove window weather stripping remove black window surround (should be a screw on top of surround towards back edge) then stationary window should unbolt then remove pins that hold operator to track pick up and pull out the operating window
No, you should use the correct parts to make sure it works reliably.
Order a new window regulator, and you need to go to a car parts store, and get a repair manual for your car. They cost about $16.00 Or, go to a Public Library.
Window motor and regulator are found inside of the door panel and may be bolted or riveted in. Should be bolted. Disconnect the window from regulator, take out reg. and motor, then disconnect regulator from motor, reconnect new motor to regulator, reattach those inside of the door, then reconnect the window to the regulator, put it together and see if it works.