On an related topic, sometimes when doing a brake job, the emergency brake gets bumped. Usually only one click, and the Brake light comes on. Make sure the emergency brake is all the way up, and the switch located at the top of the pedal is no longer depressed. If it is, with the emergency brake all the way up, loosen the switch and move it away from the pedal until the light goes off. Then tighten it. Your issue with the light may, just may, have little to do with the work you performed (with a little luck).
The brake system should be opened and flushed as rust has contaminated the system. Its possible that the rust has accumulated in the the lines or more than likely in the proportioning valve causing the light to stay on.
Rusty hammer to the rusted calipers should do the trick
Yes but with poor results. How about cutting the rusted metal out and replacing it?
the self adjuster could be frozen or rusted up.
Naturally, it all depends, but let's assume the following: Best case, low miles, bike runs well, some wear and tear, brakes & tires good exhaust good then roughly 1500. Bike runs, brakes ok, tires worn, exhaust rusted, then 1200. Bike barely runs (with choke) needs tires, brakes ok, exhaust rusted, then 1000. Bike not running, needs tires, needs exhaust, brakes not working but gas tank is ok (not rusted, not leaking) then 2-300 if low miles, if high miles (>50k) forget it. Worst case, not running, seat dry rotted, brakes not working, tires cracked, exhaust rusted, only good for parts, 50.00
It could be that the back tires brakes are rusted and need new replacements or just need oil.
Usually not. A few kits are sold, but most experts seem to agree that replacing the oil pan is the only cure.
I bought one new in 1990. The body rusted off after about 14 years. It had 170,000 miles on the second odmoter. Other than replacing brakes twice, the clutch once, the odometer cluster, and patching the radiator once, there were no major repairs needed.
Parking brakes are all operated by a cable, which you tighten by pulling the lever. If the car has discs brakes all around, the problem is almost always that the cable is rusted in the sheath. If the car has rear drum brakes, the problem can also be a jammed lever inside the drum.
The rusted nail will have a greater mass than the same nail before it was rusted.
Stale gas. Stuck valves. Dead battery. Critters like mice do a job on wires, upholstery and such. Rusted/stuck brakes.
Rusted Rail was created in 2006.
Cable is rusted, bent, or hanging for some reason. Could also be the parking brake needs adjustment. The brake is not fully releasing.
I know some WD40, a cro bar, a large C clamp and a set of TORX wrenches, and/or male sockets.
Probably one of the e-brake cables rusted tight. If you continue to drive it, it may burn out one or both of the rear brakes. Have it repaired now.
NO! A rusted nail is a chemical change
A damaged/rusted/warped brake rotor on the right front.
It shouldn't. Get the brakes serviced as soon as possible. If you can do it yourself, make sure the calipers are releasing properly and that the slides are well lubricated. Also make sure that the rear adjusters are installed correctly and that the parking brake cable is not rusted or binding.
Rusted from the Rain was created on 2009-05-19.
Most likely the left tail light ground wire is either damaged, disconnected or the body contact point is rusted to the extent that it isn't making connection.
Rusted Iron that rusted over thousands of millions of years!
the end of the e cable that's connected to the secondary brake shoe is probaly rusted and stuck and the cable needs replacing,hope the drum is ok.
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Rusted cast iron.
If it is "rusted out" you do not repair it, You do replace it with XHCI