Because warm air can carry more moisture w/o causing condensation than cold air. If you had the moisture barrier at the cold side warm moist air would hit the cold surface and fall out as condensation, leaving water in the insulation.
towards the inside of the building
Absolutely not. You tape the seams between panels to improve the vapor barrier characteristics of this product, but the foil faces of Tuff R (and any other polyisocyanurate insulation product) are your vapor barriers.
Inside, after the insullation, and wiring
between the finished grade and the concrete
If you're installing insulation yourself, remember these guidelines when using a vapor barrier: * Always place the vapor barrier towards the warm side of the insulated area - facing downward on the attic floor or to the interior side of the wall. * When adding a second layer of insulation to an attic, do NOT add a second vapor barrier - this can trap moisture inside the first layer. Use loose-fill or unfaced batts or blankets; if only faced batts are available, cut facing every few inches to allow air to pass through. * If the vapor barrier tears during installation, tape it tightly. * If you have a crawlspace, add polyethylene vapor barrier on the floor of the area to reduce condensation from ground moisture.
towards the inside of the building
Absolutely not. You tape the seams between panels to improve the vapor barrier characteristics of this product, but the foil faces of Tuff R (and any other polyisocyanurate insulation product) are your vapor barriers.
A vapor barrier in sidewall insulation is almost always a good idea.
When installing insulation be sure to install a vapor barrier on the correct side of the insulation for the region in which you are located.
The actual function of an insulation contractor is that they can skillfully install thermal, vapor, smoke, and all other different sorts of insulation.
Probably no, I don't know exactly.
Insulation should only be stapled on the edge of the stud. That's what the flap on the edges is for. This creates a vapor barrier and if you compress the insulation enough to staple on the sides this reduces the insulation at that point. Insulation has to be fluffed to get the benefit. It is easier, quicker and does not interfere with the sheetrock in any way.
You can install a geothermal heating system which consists of a long pipe that pumps heat out of the ground during the winter or into the ground during the summer, Depending on your geography, you can also install vapor barriers with your insulation. Controlling moisture is critical for efficient climate control.
Inside, after the insullation, and wiring
between the finished grade and the concrete
If you're installing insulation yourself, remember these guidelines when using a vapor barrier: * Always place the vapor barrier towards the warm side of the insulated area - facing downward on the attic floor or to the interior side of the wall. * When adding a second layer of insulation to an attic, do NOT add a second vapor barrier - this can trap moisture inside the first layer. Use loose-fill or unfaced batts or blankets; if only faced batts are available, cut facing every few inches to allow air to pass through. * If the vapor barrier tears during installation, tape it tightly. * If you have a crawlspace, add polyethylene vapor barrier on the floor of the area to reduce condensation from ground moisture.
Vapour barrier is directly onto studs.