Travis C. Williams here, there's quite a few reasons. #1 You could have a sediment build up, just turn off power to your water heater and hook a garden hose to the drain valve, and open it up, drain it completely. If there's alot of particles coming out, close drain valve let it fill back up, and open again, repeat until clean. (VERY IMPORTANT) Once finished give the water heater an hour or so to fill back up, and go to bath tub, and turn on the hot water if water starts coming out the way its suppose to, it's full, you can turn your breaker to the water heater back on now. IF YOU TURN THE POWER ON BEFORE THE TANKS FULL, YOU CAN AND MOST LIKELY WILL BURN UP YOUR HEATING ELEMENTS. #2 You could have tripped breaker going to the water heater, untrip it the same way you do anyother breaker. #3 Heating Elements and/or Thermostat could be bad, to check first of all you need a multimeter that can test OHMS and Continuity, first check where the wires come in to the water heater coming from your breaker box, if you're not getting a full 240volts, you may need to replace the breakers. Now that you've checked that now TURN THE POWER OFF TO THE HEATER, and remove access panel. Once you have found the thermostat look for the little red button, if it's pushed out, that means the thermostat is tripped, push it in, and restore power with access panel still off, if the button just keeps popping back out, then you need a new thermostat. Now to test the thermostat and same for heating element, MAKE SURE POWER IS OFF AGAIN, then remove 1 of the wires from the thermostat, and set the multimeter to OHMS, and then take 1 of the probes on the multimeter and stick it on the first screw (the one you removed wire from), hold it there, and then take other probe and touch it to all the other connections. If you multimeter is reading .1 that means the heating element or thermostat is good, if your multimeter is reading .003 that is no good it means the circuit is closed and you'll have to replace the thermostat or the element. Hope my answer helped you.
It does not have a water flow valve in the heater plumbing.It does not have a water flow valve in the heater plumbing.
It could be that a heating element in your water heater, if is electric, is cracked. This would allow electricity to flow through the water and be felt in the stream of water.
Yes its electric . Bottom of radiator right side.
Heater core plugged? Heater core airbound? Thermostat not opening to allow coolant flow?
To visually determine if there is enough air flow across a duct mounted electric heater, you should tape a piece of cardboard to it. A small piece that can flutter in the flow of the air. If it moves wildly, there is enough air.
Yes, coolant has to flow correctly for the heater to function.
An air sensing or air flow switch will do the job to prevent the heater from operating is there is no air flow from the fan.
If there is a restricted air flow through a heater, yes a heater can get hot enough to start a fire.
From the bottom, unless there's a fan ... in which case it flows in from behind the fan.
Heat in an electric wire is mainly caused by the rapid movement and collision of electrons as they flow along it, when an electric current is cut off, the flow is greatly reduced causing a huge drop in temperature.
the water heater operates at high power compared to the lights and so the water heater requires a larger current. The wires supplying current to the water heater are thicker so that the wires have a low resistance. This reduces the risk of the wires overheating.
This could either be caused by a faulty auxillary water pump (the electric one that feeds the heater), or by a faulty monovalve that controls when hot water can flow through the heater core. The monovalve will fail closed if the diaphragm is tore because the increased water pressure (from high engine speeds) will water log the diaphragm and force it closed.