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I agree with Charles. I would also sand the piece of wood with the stain a bit then apply the darker stain.
Add the wood stain to the linseed oil until you have reached the desired color for your new door. Be sure to test the stain on the same kind of wood as the door so you will know the true color once you apply it to the door.
No. It is recommended that you let it dry before staining
All you need to do is apply a coating of cherry wood stain. You can save money by not having to buy new wood or cabinets and get the look you wanted!
Yes : If conditions are right. take some water and put it on the surface if it beads you can not apply another stain. it won't be able to absorb if it does absorb the water your fine but should use a similar color
Wood stain MUST penetrate the grain of the wood or it doesn't color. clear coats like Varnish or Urethaneare designed to seal over the stain "color" & keep the wood from being "stained" by all the dirt & spills it endures over time. If you don't sand the old finish off evenly it will keep the new stain from penetrating and it will also allow the stain to penetrate in areas where the old varnish was worn or damaged but not in others making the new stain blotchy & uneven. A good quality urethane is far better and easier to apply than Varnish. .
For a professional look to your stained wooden deck, make sure to clean your new deck boards thoroughly before applying any type of stain. New wood is usually covered in crushed wood grain called mill scale that is created during the milling process of the lumber. If you skip this step, the stain might not penetrate deep enough into the wood, so you might find yourself needing to re-apply stain again next year.
Short answer -- you do not: stain is preferred over wood siding because it is more easily touched up or repaired in later years. New paint on new wood requires a primer, thus at least two coats overall (primer and colour coat), sometimes three: and repair of cracked or blistered old paint requires sanding down to bare wood, and then primer and new colour coat to match. By contrast, stain needs no primer and old stain can be easily touched up, i.e. a new patch featured into the surrounding old stain. This doctrine is partly theoretical, and the old theory was that (oil) paint formed a waterproof skin over the wood (bonded to it by the primer) whereas stain penetrated into the wood surface -- hence different repair techniques. The gradual disappearance of oil paint (and oil-based stains) and improvement of latex/alkyd paints means the chemistry of these two products nowadays overlaps. But it seems still generally true that, for wood siding after say five years' weathering, stain finish can be restored to look new for much less labour than paint finish can be restored to look new.
You might be able to save a tired fence by treating with a good wood preserver/stain. Wood that is actually broken will need to be replaced with new pieces.
You should check the label on the specific product you're planning to use. If the label states it will adhere to wood with an existing coating, then it's fine to use even over an oil-based stain. (This is because once thoroughly dried, oil-based stains behave the same as water-based stains.) Some products, however, will require the existing stain to be stripped from the wood, or to apply a primer coat over the existing finish before applying new stain.
You don't need any stain to use on boards for a corral. It's only going to do you good for aesthetics purposes, not for the cattle.
Depending on the stain technique it can take anywhere from 2 to 24-hours for the stain to dry. For cabinets, you should wait the entire 24-hours to make sure the stain is not still tacky and to prevent smudges on the finish.