...I have since found out that I need a new compressor. The replacement will cost about $700.00. The repairman also told me that Dodge knew there was a problem with the compressors going out on Neons and even sent them an alert about it. Since this is not something that can cause an accident they did not do a recall. This happened two months after my extended warranty expired.
A: The same thing happened with my 1998 Dodge Neon while I was on vacation in the middle of summer, and all it needed was freon added. The bill came to $60, so it might be a good idea to check this before shelling out $700 for a compressor.
A: Maybe a rock or something put a hole in your condensor and you lost all your refrigerant. Check to see if you have any pressure in the system. Is your switch working on your dash??? Are any fuses burnt? Good luck!
A: I would check the freon first, a shop will always try the hardest thing on you. You may want to check for leaks if you recharged it and it loses coldness rapidly. Look for oily type stains on and around the a/c hoses and canister. This happened to me, a hose was leaking at the seam. It was much cheaper than what the shop wanted to charge me for my "failed compressor".
A: The electrical connection on the compressor was defective on my Neon. It was a quick and easy home repair.
A: All vehicles slowly lose their Freon (usually about 5 years)and need to be "topped-up" Besides Freon, the system also has a thin oil in it (a cousin of brake fluid).If your system has a real leak in it,a damp stain of this oil should be visible around the leak....and that is the part/gasket/seal that needs replacing.(Freon leaks faster than oil).Compressors leak at the pulley or if worn-out,clatter loudly.
For those electrically inclined, the a/c switch runs through a low pressure sensor located on the top passenger side of the firewall. This circuit continues (blue wire w/white stripe) to the high pressure sensor located on the top right of the compressor. The circuit continues to the ECU (brown w/yellow stripe). Once the ECU receives this signal, the ECU will engage the a/c clutch. If you're a/c turns on for a few seconds and then back off, what is happening is that, while the compressor is on, the pressure decreases on the low pressure side and rises on the high pressure side. If the pressure goes too low the circuit will open at the low pressure sensor and the ECU will disengage the a/c clutch. The pressure will then level out. This will cause the low pressure sensor to reconnect the circuit and the ECU will turn the a/c clutch back on. This process keeps repeating. If this is the case, add Freon. (test pressure first with a Freon gun!!!) 21.99 at schucks, get the one with the gauge. Freon is 8.99 per can. Just as the low pressure can turn off the system too much pressure will do the same thing. In this case let out some pressure on the low pressure valve by applying pressure with a screw driver. This valve has a black cap and is located next to the window washer fluid fill port. It is an in-line t connector quick release valve. Not the high pressure valve located on the 134a reservoir just under the window washer fluid fill port. Another thing to check is that the blue wire w/white stripe and the brown wire w/yellow stripe run together in a black loom on the inside of the core support along the bottom of the core support. If this loom hangs down it will wear through these wires while going over speed bumps and such. This would cause a break in the a/c circuit and the a/c clutch will not come on at all (Commonly misconceived as a bad compressor). Solder these back together with spare wire and tape them back up in the loom. Zip tie it up real good so it doesn't happen again. Good Luck!!
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