The question is: "Why would a Ford Ranger's brakes lock up under normal braking conditions?"
Not wanting to be too general but at least trying to help I would suggest looking under the back end, and specifically at the rear backing plates and to the insides of the rear wheels, to see if you notice any fluids dripping. If these are drum brakes, then you could very well have either a wheel cylinder leaking brake fluid, causing the brake shoe linings to swell up, or it could be a leaking axle seal, allowing differential gear lube out, which will also cause the linings to swell, and minor braking will cause that particular side to lock up.
If this vehicle has rear disk brakes, or was just recently changed from rear drum brakes to rear disk brakes, it is possible that the proportioning valve in the brake line was not changed to match with the disk setup.
Drum brakes operate at approximately ten pounds per square inch pressure (10 PSI) whereas disk units operate at a lower pressure of about 2 PSI.
Just some things to look at. Some brake fluids have no smell, others are very distinctive in odor, and differential gear lube has a very distinct odor...not hard to miss once you've smelled it.
It can also be caused if you use the parking brake rarely - Sometimes the cables and springs involved with this mechanism will rust and cause the brakes to stay partially engaged, causing the rear brakes to apply before the front brakes. The best way to check this - remove the rear wheels and drums, and follow the path where the parking brake cable enters the brake. This goes to a lever with a spring return mechanism - if the spring is stretched, the brake is at least partially on - use gentle taps with a hammer to force it to release. Also check the other side.
A suggestion is to checking and bleeding both sides of the front brakes. The rear
lockup of the brake pads of my ranger with 30K miles made me think the ABS was bad, but when I changed out the brake fluid with NAPA dot 3, I found my Front discs, which had never been open to air since new, had a lot of air. Just a thought that the braking system made the rear brakes jump harder into the drums, when the system sensed that the front brakes where needing help.
There are two reasons for this. The first is the break calibers need bled and the second is the breaks themselves need adjusted back.
SBC (as Mercedies Sensortronic) Does not use Hydrolic presure provided from the driver to apply the brakes it instead uses a pump and valves to apply normal braking ABS is (straight through) under normal driving. this means when you press the pedal you create the hydrolic presure that directly applies the brakes such as in a conventional system. But when you brake hard and enter lock up condition a ecu controls valves and a pump that isolate the pedal from the brakes to control wheel slip. This is why in some cars the pedal pulsates when the abs is preventing lockup. Under ABS ECU fault condition normal braking is maintained but wheel lockup will not be prevented
Wornb brake pads. You are hearing the warning device that is telling you to replace the pads.
If the brake pedal goes down lower than normal, it will activate the ABS system. Check the fluid and for leaks. Also if there is a bad ABS sensor or brakes need adjustment or replacement, it will activate it also.
Through the rubber plug on the back straight under the axle.
It depends on the vehicle and how hard you'll be braking! Basically drum brakes are quite old fashioned and can 'lock' under hard braking or if they get wet. This can cause the wheel in question to skid! Most new vehicles these days unless they are very cheap (usually motorbikes) come with disk brakes. They won't lock if they get wet or under hard braking. Also disk brakes can have an extra feature called ABS - or Anti-lock Braking System - what this means is that when you press the brake pedal the brakes automatically turn on and off a hundred times a second or so - actually allowing you to steer. Very good. Nearly all cars and many motorbikes come with this feature as standard or an option.
The brakes are designed to handle that truck at the loaded weight - when under that weight, a bit more finesse needs to be used when braking.
NO! Take it back to the dealer, it is under warranty.
Follow the brake connection bar under the frame to the brake system. Get someone to put the brakes on and off while you learn how they make a braking action.There should be an adjustment nut to tighten the pressure. you may even need new brake pads.
Mechanical energy can create thermal energy by doing work on a substance, such as compressing a gas, or by friction as in brakes on a vehicle, which get very hot under braking.
For the 2.3L 4 cylinder, under normal driving conditions, 60K
Anti lock system maybe If this is a front wheel drive vehicle you may have a cracked axle,,,,,causing the popping noise when turned and under hard braking.
There may be damage or misalignment in the front brakes if this is where the sound is coming from. If it is from more generally under the hood, this can be the power steering.
A 2.9 Ford Ranger NEVER has much power, but if it's lower than normal, try running a computer diag scan to see if the computer has picked up something.
Your towing capacity is a combination of vehicle weight and stopping power. The Astro's can handle approx 2500 without question, up to 5K depending on models. Your owners manual has full info. Pre-2003 Astro's have relatively weak braking systems for their weight. In 2003, bigger brakes and dynamic front-rear brake proportioning were added. Thus, your older astro cannot increase rear braking force when additional weight is transfered to the rear axle from your trailer. 2,100lbs without brakes is okay, but I wouldn't do it everyday. Anything over 4,000lbs with good brakes behind the astro will push the rear end around in an unfriendly manner under hard braking and during quick maneuvers.
When the system is active this is normal due to the braking system being applied to a spinning wheel or a wheel that in under or over steering.
My first guess would be the front end alignment and possibly the brakes. During braking, you engine and transmission are not under a load so they should not cause any vibration.
Check the LPV (Load proportioning valve), if fitted. It controls the amount of rear vs front braking under "heavy" loads, if faulty it will cause rear lock up. Another thing to check is that front brakes have been bled, and the front brake circuit is working at all.
Try to keep driving. Cry Call yourfriends Kill someone Run around Be having fun Celebrate My versionDo not:Move the steering wheel quicklySlam on the brakes.In fact until you are sure you are steering safely no brakes at allOnce the car is under control gentle braking and moving out of traffic is next.
You should use this link: http://www.corvettebuyers.com/c4vettes/codes.htm to read the ABS codes.
Take it to a gunsmith for proper identification. Marlin made a Ranger model 103 over and under. Sears Ranger 103 O/U was the Marlin Model 90 O/U. Sears sold them under the Ranger name prior to WWII and as the JC Higgins after WWII.
Abs dash light, Abs rings on the cv axles or wheel hubs, hydraulic actuator between the master cylinder and calipers/cylinders. Under extreme braking the pedal should pulsate not to be confused with rotors run out. Hope that helps out.
Wheel shaking under braking can be caused by a warped rotor. A grinding noise when you turn can be a bad wheel bearing or worn brake pads. Either way you need to have your brakes and wheel bearings inspected immediately. This can be very dangerous. Any decent mechanic can find the problem and repair it.
This could be the cause if an improper alignment if it happens under normal straight line driving. If the jerk is more prevalent when going on bumpy roads, it may be a sign of bad shocks or springs. If the jerk is occurring during braking situations, the problem may be related to the bearings being worn or warped discs/drums in the braking system.