The question is: "Why would a Ford Ranger's brakes lock up under normal braking conditions?"
Not wanting to be too general but at least trying to help I would suggest looking under the back end, and specifically at the rear backing plates and to the insides of the rear wheels, to see if you notice any fluids dripping. If these are drum brakes, then you could very well have either a wheel cylinder leaking brake fluid, causing the brake shoe linings to swell up, or it could be a leaking axle seal, allowing differential gear lube out, which will also cause the linings to swell, and minor braking will cause that particular side to lock up.
If this vehicle has rear disk brakes, or was just recently changed from rear drum brakes to rear disk brakes, it is possible that the proportioning valve in the brake line was not changed to match with the disk setup.
Drum brakes operate at approximately ten pounds per square inch pressure (10 PSI) whereas disk units operate at a lower pressure of about 2 PSI.
Just some things to look at. Some brake fluids have no smell, others are very distinctive in odor, and differential gear lube has a very distinct odor...not hard to miss once you've smelled it.
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It can also be caused if you use the parking brake rarely - Sometimes the cables and springs involved with this mechanism will rust and cause the brakes to stay partially engaged, causing the rear brakes to apply before the front brakes. The best way to check this - remove the rear wheels and drums, and follow the path where the parking brake cable enters the brake. This goes to a lever with a spring return mechanism - if the spring is stretched, the brake is at least partially on - use gentle taps with a hammer to force it to release. Also check the other side.
A suggestion:
A suggestion is to checking and bleeding both sides of the front brakes. The rear
lockup of the brake pads of my ranger with 30K miles made me think the ABS was bad, but when I changed out the brake fluid with NAPA dot 3, I found my Front discs, which had never been open to air since new, had a lot of air. Just a thought that the braking system made the rear brakes jump harder into the drums, when the system sensed that the front brakes where needing help.
There are two reasons for this. The first is the break calibers need bled and the second is the breaks themselves need adjusted back.
SBC (as Mercedies Sensortronic) Does not use Hydrolic presure provided from the driver to apply the brakes it instead uses a pump and valves to apply normal braking ABS is (straight through) under normal driving. this means when you press the pedal you create the hydrolic presure that directly applies the brakes such as in a conventional system. But when you brake hard and enter lock up condition a ecu controls valves and a pump that isolate the pedal from the brakes to control wheel slip. This is why in some cars the pedal pulsates when the abs is preventing lockup. Under ABS ECU fault condition normal braking is maintained but wheel lockup will not be prevented
If the brake pedal goes down lower than normal, it will activate the ABS system. Check the fluid and for leaks. Also if there is a bad ABS sensor or brakes need adjustment or replacement, it will activate it also.
Through the rubber plug on the back straight under the axle.
The brakes are designed to handle that truck at the loaded weight - when under that weight, a bit more finesse needs to be used when braking.
It depends on the vehicle and how hard you'll be braking! Basically drum brakes are quite old fashioned and can 'lock' under hard braking or if they get wet. This can cause the wheel in question to skid! Most new vehicles these days unless they are very cheap (usually motorbikes) come with disk brakes. They won't lock if they get wet or under hard braking. Also disk brakes can have an extra feature called ABS - or Anti-lock Braking System - what this means is that when you press the brake pedal the brakes automatically turn on and off a hundred times a second or so - actually allowing you to steer. Very good. Nearly all cars and many motorbikes come with this feature as standard or an option.
Mechanical energy can create thermal energy by doing work on a substance, such as compressing a gas, or by friction as in brakes on a vehicle, which get very hot under braking.
Follow the brake connection bar under the frame to the brake system. Get someone to put the brakes on and off while you learn how they make a braking action.There should be an adjustment nut to tighten the pressure. you may even need new brake pads.
NO! Take it back to the dealer, it is under warranty.
For the 2.3L 4 cylinder, under normal driving conditions, 60K
There may be damage or misalignment in the front brakes if this is where the sound is coming from. If it is from more generally under the hood, this can be the power steering.
Anti lock system maybe If this is a front wheel drive vehicle you may have a cracked axle,,,,,causing the popping noise when turned and under hard braking.