The evaporator coil is made of copper tubing ran through aluminum fins. The whole assembly is held together by support plates called header plates made of stainless steel. Although stainless steel, it still rusts and corrodes which in turn makes jagged edges where the copper tubing passes. These jagged edges eat into the copper tubing and cause pinhole leaks or worse and are for the most part non repairable, or at least not cost effective to repair. Sometimes you will have a fitting leak that was not welded properly or a heavy contact point that rubbed through, both of which are repairable if accessible. But by far a leaking header plate is most often the culprit. Thicker copper tubing from the manufacture process would help but if anyone would bring back the all aluminum coil we could see the end of leaks. Guess why they don't make them anymore...
If the drain plug under the evaporator coil is plugged up it will cause condensation to leak into the car. If the heater core is bad it will allow coolant to leak into the car. If the leak is warm and smells sweet it is the heater coil.
No you have to replace it.
You see mold on the coil, you see ice on the coil, you see dye on the coil with a blacklight after cycling dyed refrigerant through it, you run a halogen sniffer over it and it detects a leak.
1st you would need to locate the leak. This is normally done by a trained tech by adding a leak detection dye into system then a UV light is used to find the leak. If the leak is in the copper line set then it can be repaired. If the leak is in the evaporator or condensing coils the coil would need to be replaced.
The Refrigerator evaporator coil has many forces working upon it from a wide swing of temperature and pressure and vibrations that is caused. Then there is the ice that builds up on the coil between defrost cycles that produces some of the forces that are on the coil. To that add electrolyses of the different metal that are uses in the coil and the corrosive chemical bath that comes from the area and products being refrigerated. The refrigerator evaporator coil have a lot of silver soldered 90 degree union fitting that the forces work on. Than there is the design of the standard refrigerator evaporator coil. The coil sets in the drain pan and drips condensate into the drain pan. A long with the condensate comes some of the dirt and lent that collects on the evaporator fins and if not maintained it will plug the fins and than plug the drain pan. And fill the coil with condensate then more ice. When you really look at the refrigeration evaporation coil you wonder why they don't leak more. I am not even going to talk about the guys that defrost refrigeration evaporator coils with a ice picks.
It could mean that there is a leak in the system near the spot. The system cycles oil with the refrigerant, and when the refrigerant escapes through a leak it can release oil, which will leave an oil spot.
More importantly, why is the unit freezing? There are several reasons that can cause this. Most common are dirty filter or evaporator coil that the filter protects. It can also be lack of air flow across the evaporator coil due to a bad fan motor or broken fan belt if so equipped. Last reason might be the unit is low on refrigerant which would mean that you have a leak somewhere.
Could be as simple as a faulty gas cap.
To remove the AC evaporator coil from a 1998 Chevy pickup, start by disconnecting the battery and draining the refrigerant from the AC system. Next, remove the dashboard and the HVAC assembly, which involves detaching various components like the heater hoses and electrical connectors. Once the HVAC unit is accessible, unbolt the evaporator coil from its housing and carefully extract it. Reassemble in reverse order, ensuring all connections are secure and leak-free before filling the system with refrigerant.
heater coil
there is a leak in the drain pan that the evaporator sits in inside your furnance
yeah