Want this question answered?
The heating element in the electric kettle will be primarily pure resistive. Power in that case is calculated P = E*I = 250V*I = 3000 W So the current is I = 3000 W/250 V = 12 Amps If there is anything else (lights, radio, PC, etc.) on the circuit that may be taking some current you are very likely to go over 13 A frequently. I don't know how accurate you can expect a fuse's blow point to be. Perhaps +/- 10%? Doesn't seem very trouble free. Even if the circuit is dedicated to the kettle, consider this idea. We don't know exactly what conditions the manufacturer was considering when specifying the wattage. Probably operating conditions, when the element was hot. Then Ohm's Law tells us that the resistance R is R = E/I = 250 V/12 Amps = 20.8 Ohms But the element's resistance would be lower at first when it is cold. My calculations indicate that if the element is made of nichrome wire, and if the temperature change is 200 degrees C, the hot resistance of 21 Ohms is probably about 1.7 Ohms higher than when at room temperature. If that is true, when you first turn it on, Ohm's Law says that the initial current should be 12.95 Amps. Regardless of this analysis, remember that the fuse requirement is based on the size of the wires in the wall. You don't want those wires to get hot. Don't put in a bigger fuse than what was there originally.
The heating element in electric heaters and irons is made from an alloy of nickel and chronium called nichrome. It is usually made in the form of wire. The wire is often wound around a flat sheet of mica for support. Mica is a thin layered mineral that can withstand high temperatures.
Only the fan is working, there is no gas burning (gas heater) or the electric heating element is not working(electric heater)Answeris it electric gas or oil Its gas.
That would most likely be a nickel and chrome alloy. Light bulbs use tungsten.
heating element stopped working
It is possible. With a battery power source and some kind of heating element that creates electrical resistance in order to transfer that energy into heat; it could be done. I would not recommend that you try.
In that case, it would be less efficient. Hot water rises to the top, mixing the water (if the heating element is at the bottom). When it is at the top, the water won't mix as well, and more heat would be wasted.
Your car may be on fire.
"Burning" in the conventional sense is combining with Oxygen. The element would liberate heat and leave as residue, oxides of itself.
Heating S in a closed environment where it reacts with nothing would be physical but burning S in an open environment it will react with O and is therefore chemical.
I believe I would select NiChrome wire. It has a high resistance for a metal and is not particularly toxic or expensive.
Voltage applied (voltage at source, resistance of wire and conections etc), ground resistance, designed brightness of element in comparison to the applied voltage