First and foremost make sure the light bulb is a good one. Try it in another fixture to make sure, even if it just came out of the box it was packed in. If you have checked the switch for power then you must have a tester. The power coming to the switch will most likely be on the top screw. Turn the switch on and see if you have voltage on the bottom screw. Check this voltage from the screws to the ground wire as the neutral will not be accessible in the back of the switch box. If there is voltage to the bottom screw then move on to the light fixture. Remove the outside light fixture and see if you get a voltage reading on the incoming hot (black ) wire. If there is voltage there then you have to see if the lamp holder is making continuity. If you have an ohm meter or a continuity meter remove the lamp fixture from the "hot" wire and the neutral connection and see if you get a reading across the fixtures black and white wire. This has to be tested with the bulb in the fixture. No continuity reading then there is trouble with the socket. Might be time to think about a new fixture.
No. Starter comes in the circuit initially and then cuts off once the tube is on. If you use the switch, it wont be cut off automatically. If you want to use the switch manually then it technically possible to do so
On the inside of the heater cover, and within the documentation shipped with the heater, there should be a diagram of the control circuit. These heaters will not operate if the pump is off (pressure switch), if the "fireman" switch is off (a switch generally inside the pump timer that disables the heater about 15 minutes prior to turning off the pump), nor if both of two additional high temperature limit switches are activated (models will vary). The fact that the pilot is lit indicates that the pilot generator is OK. If you can turn the burner on by shorting the control circuit manually (using a jumper wire) the problem is in on of the safety limit switches, or in the thermostat itself. Good Hunting! http://www.poolcenter.com/parts_heaters_laars_xe_pg1.htm A pilot generator may have enough power to operate the pilot ,however not be sufficient to operate the main valve as well, this is quite common. The way I test a millivolt system of any type is I have a AA battery holder from RadioShack with a positive and negative lead, I disconnect the pilot generators 2 leads and replace them with the AA batterys. The battery is 1.5v it wont hurt though, but if the gas valve wont open and you do get voltage to the gas valve terminals for the main valve, the valve is either bad or stuck, an amp draw will tell you if its trying to work or shorted perhaps if excessive. There are a limit and on off and thermostat on this unit I believe as well .
Main sufferers: Students, patients in hospitals, industry Students: Cant study as there is no light in their home and so if there is an exam of him next day he cant do well in that exam. Patients in hospitals: May suffocate as the light and fans wont function. Operations of many serious patients get delayed. Industries: They get paralysed as there is no electricity. Thus they cannot produce enough and thus this economically hampers a country Foods in refrigerators get rotten. People become victims of pickpocekting and hijacking. (Almost all of the things that I have written is by taking idea from a book)
Low voltage alternating current. I know that wont be too helpful but I am having a meeting with an Engineer tomorrow who has done a lot of work on LVAC so will update that
In an open circuit test full load current does not flow, hence you wont get copper loss.
1) light bulb burned out 2) switch not turned on 3) switch broken 4) power supply disconnected
Brake light switch went bad.
I don't know if this will help, but I had a similar problem and it was a short in the light switch. Because the alarm was wired into the light switch. I wiggled the switch and it started. Change it.
Check the 92 Camaro neutral safety switch next. If the switch is faulty then the starter will not get power to start the engine.
The brake light switch might not be connected properly. Remove the brake light switch for 10 seconds and replace it to its original position.
The brake light is controlled by a relay switch. If the relay switch is bad the brake lights will stay on. The brake light switch simply plugs in and out. Unplug the brake light switch until you can replace it.
If you have two switches connected to a light in a room.example your bed room and you are in your bed you wont have to get out of your bed to switch off the light but u can switch it off by pulling a switch over your head.
I believe it is integrated with the light switch, so you need to replace the entire switch.
Take the light out. You might have a bad switch in the door frame. When the door closes- it pushes a switch which I believe opens a circuit and shuts off your light. If the switch is bad it wont open the circuit and the light stays on.
It's because they are not wired in a 3-way fashion. The switch downstairs is wired in series with the switch upstairs in the same manner the pullchain on a light socket adapter would turn on and off your light only when the wall's switch is on.
Sounds like the brake light switch is defective.Sounds like the brake light switch is defective.
A door switch may be broken or out of adjustment or the dome light switch on the dash is turned on.