Have someone check it out, It could be the shock/strut or possibly a ball joint or tie-rod end. This just happened to my brother. He heard a creaking sound and did nothing about it and eventually...1-2 months later the tie-rod snapped off when he was pulling into the driveway, luckily it didn't happen on the highway or it could have been a disaster.
If the clunk sound seems to come from the front of the car and normally occurs after turning a sharp left or right and then hitting your brake--this is probably due to your upper isolators (the bushings between the body of the car and subframe/engine cradle; there are also 4 lower ones) are worn out. I had the same problem with my 94 ES and I had the front suspension and other frontal parts checked but they could not determine the problem. After much thought and research I thought to myself that the upper isolators were the culprits. I bought 4 upper isolators (there are 4 total) and had them changed at the repair shop for $230. I still hear the clunk but it is much much faintier than before and my steering and ride are a whole lot better. In addition I looked at them after they were removed and two of them were very badly worn so worn that the rubber on 2 of them were completely gone. Keep in mind that these cars have bushing and suspension problems (the majority of my money and time went to bushings and suspension: inner and outer tie rod bushing, steering rack isolators, frontal struts, ball joints) so if there is an excessive play or poor returnability of the steering this could mean that other bushings and/or other suspension components are bad. * The clunking sound is actually due to strut mounts being worn and/or loose. Changing the isolators only minimize the clunking. It is best to get the strut mounts inspected to further clarify assumptions.
The suspension point, also known as an ellipsis, is used to indicate a pause or omission in a sentence. It can create suspense, suggest a trailing off of thought, or show that something has been left out. It is a versatile punctuation mark that adds depth and complexity to written communication.
I thought it was on the drivers' side in the trunk in the panel where the air suspension off and on switch is but below the switch.
Electronic Controlled Suspension. That's a nice thought, but, I'm pretty sure this is Subaru's version of the 'Check Engine' light. Electronic Stability Control
I TO HAVE A 96 WINDSTAR THAT HAD A SIMILAR PROBLEM WHILE DRIVING ON ROUGH ROADS. WITH THE SLIDING DOOR OPENED I WOULD TRY AND SHAKE IT TO TRY AND MAKE THE SOUND, BUT NO SOUND. WITH SOMEONE DRIVING THE VAN AND DOOR CLOSED TRIED PUSHING ON THE DOOR , THE NOISE WAS STILL THERE . EVENTUALLY TRACED IT TO THE REAR SHOCK ABSORBER RUBBER BUSHING, THE SHOCK WAS VIBRATING AGAINST THE FASTENER THAT SHOULD HAVE HAD A RUBBER BUSHING. AFTER REPLACING THE BUSHING THE NOISE WAS GONE HOPE THIS SOLVES YOUR PROBLEM. I have 98. I searched for that noise everywhere on my van. I could not get it to stop. When I messed with the side door and the noise continued, I started to think it was the jack moving around, then maybe the lock in the rear door. Going insane I thought. Then while under the van to get a child's ball, I noticed the shocks were so worn, the rubber bushing was gone. I had the absorbers replaced and I can`t even get my 98 to make a noise now even when I push it to the limit over bumps. If the absorbers are in good condition but the bushing is shot-NEW BUSHINGS, but if your absorbers are riding low-NEW SHOCKS.
Lubricating strips are made of polyurethane, or other similar materials, that is impregnated with acrylic polymers. These strips are mounted on the head of the razor, in front of the blades. The polymer film absorbs water and becomes very slippery, thus creating a lubricating surface that helps the blade glide across the surface of the face without snagging or cutting the skin. PS: This is not Natural at all, polymers are thought to be cancerous and are not healthy for your skin. So why use this stuff? This is to make a razor expire early. not because the razors are worn out, but because the strip is worn out making it uncomfortable to shave and discarded. Its all about selling more razors... Not to mention more garbage... :(
With jackstands and wrenches. 1. Unhook the battery. 2. Open the hood, reach behind the engine on the right-hand side and find the 17mm nut. Remove this. That holds the top bolt in place. 3. Crawl under and remove the bendix wire, the starter wire, and the bottom bolt. 4. Use both hands to pull the starter back, then out of the car. 5. Installation is the reverse of removal. A word of caution - please! 1. I removed my starter exactly as answered. My replacement starter came with a small brass bushing attached and instructions that stated "I must relplace the old bushing with this new one" 2. Upon more research I found some "yes you have to's" and some "not always" 3. I decided upon prudence and removed the old bushing. This is done by getting a tap of the right size (forgot size at the moment) and tapping out the hole, which makes the old bushing ride up the tap. 4. I was proud since I was almost done, I thought. 5. Instructions indicated that the new bushing needs to be tapped into the now empty hole. Tap-tap-tap...it would not go in now matter how I tried. Compared sizes and discover the old and new bushings were identical. 6. Tip number 1: if the old bushing is identical in size and it's in good shape, don't try to replace it. 7. I continued to fiddle with the bushing when it slipped out my slightly greasy hands and fell. Where did it fall? Well, there is an opening in the flywheel bell housing directly beneath the bushing hole. This opening is very small and the bell housing is very deep and dark and greasy. 8. My heart sank. I tried everything to retrieve the new bushing -- no success. Being brass, no magnet I had would server as bait, and gum and other sticky globs failed to find and grab the missing bushing. 9. I was afraid to just leave it in there so I called around and my best and favorite mechanic finally gave me the bad news. "Gotta drop the engine so we can take the housing apart to remove the bushing." 10. So there. I hope this doesn't happen to anyone else. In hindsight, it would have been trivial to cover the offending opening before beginning the bushing operation. That's what I'll do if I ever have to replace a starter again.
Yes they should because not only they bully, they also degrade a persons life and then the victim has thought of what will the bully do, and about suicidal thought as well. Bullys should be expelled. Several kids have killed themselves over bullys. the victims will have lower grades, depression, and won't be focused.
are you sure it is valve chatter,Thought i had same problem but it was the rotor on the distributer hitting on the cap due to a bad top bushing in the distributer.
Ron Artest had the longest suspension with 73 games including the playoffs. On November 19, 2004, John Green threw a cup of beer at Ron Artest after he fouled Ben Wallace with 45.9 seconds in the game. Artest charged at who he wrongly thought him him and viciously mauled him with his fists. This sparked the infamous Pacers-Pistons brawl, one of the worst brawls, if not the worst, in NBA history.
i have the same problem. this occurs whenever i go over speed bumps, dips, or when im @ a complete stop and begin to gas. is this the same for you? i originally thought it was coming from the front suspension spring.. still not sure.
The bridge was constructed with no thought at all about aerodynamics and the dynamic effects of wind forces. According to bridge historian David P. Billington, at that time among suspension bridge engineers, "there seemed to be almost no recognition that wind created vertical movement at all."