No as long as the plunger moves freely. The rotors can look rusty have a few days of sitting in damp environment.
Surface rust is normal depending on the climate you live in.
There are several things I would need to know to answer correctly:What kind of vehicleWhat yearWhat type of brakesThe fact that one brake does work means there is an underlying problem with the rest that needs to be repaired.Usually on a car one brake working means that the other three have seized hydraulic systems in each brake and require the replacement of the cylinders or Calipers.
The spring brake chamber is designed as a parking brake only. The service brake chamber is air operated which can be controlled more efficiently as needed.
No, without a written lease, the landlord can only evict the same as a month to month lease agreement (30 days) but the protections to the tenant and landlord are not stated.
You ONLY lose brake pressure if you have a leak somewhere ! - This can be in any wheel cylinder , the master cylinder, or a fractured brake line. Till you find the leak, keep your master cylinder topped up daily.If the brake fluid reservoir remains full and the brake pedal sinks to the floor as you are waiting at a stop light, the master cylinder is at fault.
If only one wheel is grabbing, check the opposite side for problems like a frozen caliper, pinched brake line, a restricted brake hose or a bad grease seal allowing grease to get on to the rotor.
No need to rotate the front caliper pistons as you compress the front calipers. That process is only for the rear calipers because of the parking brake mechanism.
I can only assume that Z0, means Z06. There was not a Z06, in 97. And the brake calipers are the same for the two years.
Have you replaced your rear pads or calipers? May have air in the lines. The reason the E- brake works is because it is engaged by a cable and has nothing to do with the hydraulics of your brake system.
no but to depress calipers because of parking brake setup screw piston cup in. c clamp will only break the calipers
I am not quite sure what you mean. If the pads are good, and the rotor's are good, and not out of round, then, the only thing left is that the calipers are seizing. Is this on one or both sides? When was the last brake job? Have the calipers been serviced? If you need to replace the calipers, ( best ) the cost is under $ 20.00 per side for rebuilt. Good luck.
Calipers do not have a grease fitting. The only fitting is a bleed value and this is for brake fluid to come out of when you bleed the brakes. I bet you are trying to lube the caliper pins. Simply remove the pins holding the caliper on and use the appropate brake lube. You can pick up the correct lube at you local parts store
There is no procedure. The only components that need to be bled (depending on work performed) are the master cylinder, wheel cylinders and calipers.
Usually brake calipers are not repairable. It can fixed only temporary, and eventually you will have to replace it. PS: the problem with steaky caliper is that it might lock at some moment, and there is not way how you can unlock it if you are not in your garage. You do not want one of caliper get locked somewhere on highway.
There are several things I would need to know to answer correctly:What kind of vehicleWhat yearWhat type of brakesThe fact that one brake does work means there is an underlying problem with the rest that needs to be repaired.Usually on a car one brake working means that the other three have seized hydraulic systems in each brake and require the replacement of the cylinders or Calipers.
Should be 'slip on' type retained only by wheelnuts and the brake caliper. Jack up the front end and support safely on blocks or stands. Then remove the wheels. Now remove the brake calipers (usually 2 7mm hex key bolts per caliper) and hang them up with wire. Do not let calipers hang by the brake hose! Also do not allow the brakes to be applied without the rotor between the brake pads! Now the rotor should slide right off the hub. Installation is same steps in reverse.
The rear calipers are bolted on, depending on who rebuilt the calipers last either with torx or allen bolts. Undo both. The old pads and the caliper may not want to come past the rusty edge of the rotor. To get past this I have used a pry bar if the issue is not to bad or a small grinder disk on the rusty raised edges only. Once the pads and caliper slide off the inside bad is held by a little wimpy clip system and will probably fall out as soon as the caliper clears the rotor. The outer pad is more securely retained and will require a little force to pop out. Screw the piston back into the caliper with the special tool you can buy at any parts or auto tool supplier. Reinstall is reverse of removal from there.
There is no valve inside. It purely restricts flow to the front so that the more efficient front brakes are not doing all of the braking. You will only find these on disc/drum combinations. If you are experiencing a brake pull, you need to replace either the front brake hoses or one of the calipers. If the brake warning light switch is leaking, the proportioning valve will have to be replaced.