How do you change a cv axel on a 2000 ford focus?

Answer 1

Steering and suspension systems on modern cars are fairly similar. First and foremost, are you sure that the entire axle requires replacing? Likely, it only needs a new boot installed to keep out the elements. The continuous velocity (CV) axle, is basically an axle with hinged joints found in front-wheel drive cars that allows the drive wheels to steer. The hinged areas are sealed from road dirt and moisture by rubber boots, and when this rubber boot breaks down, moisture, salt, and dirt enter the CV joint and begin to rust and damage it. Sometimes the boot can be torn by road debris as well. In any case, the disassembly procedure is the same.

First disconnect the negative battery terminal from your vehicle... all sorts of things can happen when working on a vehicle; frying your vehicle's computer or accidentally deploying the air bags are two very common ones; both are very expensive, and neither can happen with the battery disconnected.

Second, block the rear wheels and engage the parking brake. Break the lug nuts free, but do not loosen them.

Third, raise the side of the vehicle with the damaged CV Axle, and support it securely with jack stands. Never work on any part of a vehicle that is supported using jacks only. Never remove both CV Axles from the transmission at the same time.

Fourth, remove the lug nuts and wheel. Depending on specific design, before proceeding to the next step, you may need to remove the brake caliper and brake disc by loosening the two bolts that hold the caliper to the steering knuckle; the disc may have a hold-down screw or two. The brake caliper should be hung from a wire, such as a coat hanger so that it does not hang from the rubber brake like, which may damage it. Residual pressure in the brake system may close the caliper while you work, making it difficult to re-install on the rotor, so use a brake caliper spreader to hold it open or re-open it. If these aren't available, remove the brake pads and use a c-clamp to re-compress the brake cylinder. But avoid using a clamp on the brake pads, as it will likely crush or chip them.

Fifth, free the CV axle by removing the hub nut. Remove the cotter pin and cover that holds the CV Axle to the steering knuckle. Loosen the hub nut and set aside the nut and washer(s).

Sixth, remove the steering tie-rod from the steering knuckle (by removing the cotter pin and lock nut and using a Pittman arm puller to separate the joint. Do not adjust the tie-rod ends, but rather remove them from the steering knuckle.

Seventh, loosen the steering knuckle ball joint (at the bottom of the steering knuckle) and separate with a ball-joint separator or puller. You should now be able to rotate the steering knuckle out far enough to allow you to push the CV Axle out through the back of the hub and steering knuckle. The CV Axle is designed to be spring-loaded, and will compress substantially to permit this process. If, after removing the hub nut and washers, the CV axle seems stuck in the hub, tap the end with a punch to free it.

Eighth, pry the CV Axle out of the automatic transaxle(or transmission). Transmission Fluid may leak out at this point, so be prepared with a basin to catch it and replacement fluid of the proper type for your vehicle. Since you're wasting transmission fluid, now might be a great time to replace the transmission fluid filter, as well.

Now, inspect the CV joints. Usually, unless they've been open to the elements for an extremely long time, they will be in good mechanical condition. If you're bored, rebuilding and repacking all the tiny bearings is loads of fun, but an entire axle can be had cheaply (and the old one recycled), so why bother?

Push the transaxle end of the CV Axle into the transaxle sharply to snap it in. When installed properly, the large snap ring should retain in without any play. Reverse instructions to re-install.

Don't forget to re-attach the negative battery terminal... or you'll be calling a tow truck.