Get farther away and put down less paint on the old finish. You can put more thinner in it also, so that it doesn't hide as much. After it dries, you can buff the old to blend in the finish. It takes a lot of practice and talent to do this so that you don't see the difference. All paint fades and some colors are very hard to match.
It helps to have the same paint that was used to paint the ceiling in the first place. Next best option is knowing the exact color and product the paint was in. Next to impossible is buying a can of "ceiling paint" and using that. There are way to many different shades and sheens of ceiling paint to guess. Thin out the paint approx one ounce of water or thinner, depending on the paint base, to eight ounces of paint. Brush or roll the area that is being touched up, then feather out the edges of the paint so that it blends into the existing paint. Feather out means to spread the paint along the edge of the touch up area into the surrounding area so that the touch up doesn't have a hard edge.
"YES" if you wait till the paint is dry,and then try to remove the tape,you risk pulling the edge of the paint with the tape.if the paint is dry,use a sharpe knife or box cuttter to cut the tape from the edge of the paint ,this should help to avoid pulling the paint away from the painted surface.
Textured paint is made by adding some inert material to your paint, either while it is still in the can, or by sprinkling it on while the paint is still wet. The most common usage is to give "grip" to painted stairs. An additive known as "Shark skin" - it is really just a fine sand - is added to paint in the can, stirred in and the steps are painted with the mixture. The result is a non-slip surface. The difficulty is that if you do not continually stir the paint the additive settles to the bottom of the can. The best way to use this product is to paint the stairs, wait for the paint to dry, tape or mask off all of the tread but a 1 1/2 inch strip at the front edge of the step, apply another coat of paint and while it is wet sprinkle the "Shark skin" into the wet paint. Remove the tape or masking and wait for the paint to dry. This gives you a a tidier look, a non-slip edge and does not ruin the paint you have left.
At its outer edge, where it meets the atmosphere, the temperature of the crust of the Earth is the same temperature as the air. So, it might be as hot as 35 °C in the desert and below freezing in Antarctica.
Ensure that you are putting enough paint on the surface, then roll or spray the ceiling all in one direction. Always work to the wet paint edge and do not stop long enough for the paint to dry. If you are spraying, do two coats, one in the direction of the length, and the other in the direction of the width. If you are rolling and trying to avoid a second coat, make sure you are putting enough paint on the ceiling and then wait 24 hours. If you see marks after 24 hours, put on a second coat in the other direction, ie if you applied the first coat the length of the ceiling, apply the second coat in the direction of the width. Again, be sure to work into the wet edge so do not stop long enough to allow the paint to dry to the touch. Once you've finished the second coat, allow the paint to dry for 24 hours before judging the coverage. Another trick is to use a 100% acrylic stain kill primer instead of ceiling paint. It will cost about twice as much but it is as close as you can come to a guaranteed one coat ceiling paint. Since the ceiling is not subject to wear and tear, there is no need to top coat with a paint.
If the edge you are referring to is the paint line start with some 1200 grit paper and keep the paper and the area being sanded wet. Once the line is brought down buff with a cutting compound to bring back the shine. This is assuming new clear coat overall
Feathering is done to blend new paint into old paint, this makes the transition gradual and therefore less noticeable.
It helps to have the same paint that was used to paint the ceiling in the first place. Next best option is knowing the exact color and product the paint was in. Next to impossible is buying a can of "ceiling paint" and using that. There are way to many different shades and sheens of ceiling paint to guess. Thin out the paint approx one ounce of water or thinner, depending on the paint base, to eight ounces of paint. Brush or roll the area that is being touched up, then feather out the edges of the paint so that it blends into the existing paint. Feather out means to spread the paint along the edge of the touch up area into the surrounding area so that the touch up doesn't have a hard edge.
bottom edge of the last
Yep.
1. Two of a Kind: Edge Meets Steele
An edge. A horizontal edge, to be more precise.
The Sahel
A term I will use when im talking about sanding is feather-edging. Say for example you have a scratch that goes down to your primer. When sanding this out, you want to sand the whole area around it as to avoid sanding a low spot in the paint where it was at. With feather edging, you want to step out all the layers of paint, primer and anything else that is there(hopefully nothing else!) A good guide to go by when feather edging is to try to sand each layer out so you can see each individual ring of primer, paint, clear, etc... You probably wont see the actual layers of paint(say the paint had 3 layers then clear) but you will want to be able to see it all. Run your hand flat across the surface to feel if its smooth, keeping it flat will make any bumps more noticeable than running a finger over it. Note, feather-edging isn't only applied to scratches, but many other things such as rock chips, its just a term used for a sanding technique.
one of the tiny hooks along the edge of a contour feather that "zips" the barbs together
one of the tiny hooks along the edge of a contour feather that "zips" the barbs together
The part on where the continental shelf meets the continental slope creating an edge.