Depending on the motor you may need to put a small dot of silicone at the corners where the intake meets the head of a V motor. 4-6 cylindar straight motors don't use sealer.
Barr's, tablet form. That's what I heard. The stuff does work well.
Take a look into a sealer called StoneLok. You will definitely want to go with a polyurethane sealer because it will have a thicker base. Twice as thick as an acrylic sealer.
Any oil based chalky surface sealer should lock the calcimine down, providing a stable surface that will accept any latex ceiling paint.
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Most products like deck sealer will tell you on the can how many square feet it will cover.
no, but you can replace the gasket entirely add the sealant ensuring a leak free fit.
NO. You MUST replace the intake gasket.
That's probably not a good idea. You could use silicone gasket sealer, but let it thoroughly dry before you start the engine, otherwise it could be sucked down the intake.
The exhaust manifold needs to have a gasket in place to help seal the juncture between the manifold and the engine. After the gasket and gasket sealer are in place, tighten the bolts for the exhaust manifold. The exhaust pipe can then be replaced on the new exhaust manifold.
Intake Manifold (Cast Iron Heads) Non- Hardening Sealer 30 ft-lbs.
The thermostat goes in the recess of the manifold . The gasket should be glued to the thermostat housing. Silicone sealer makes a metal surface slippery, so if used, should be done sparingly. Let the two adhere and install the housing to the intake. Do not over tighten as a bolt could possibily break. BE SURE THE SURFACE IS CLEAN of the old gasket.
Intake Manifold (Cast Iron Heads) Non- Hardening Sealer 30 ft-lbs.
Intake Manifold (Cast Iron Heads) Non- Hardening Sealer 30 ft-lbs.
The removal and reinstallation of an intake manifold on this FWD transverse application is of Êhigh difficulty. The first steps are disconnecting wiring harnesses, and brackets obstructing the manifold bolts. Once the manifold bolts are off, the factory gaskets should be removed and surfaces cleaned off. The manifold can be run through a parts cleaner to dissolve carbon deposits. The new gasket and sealer as needed should be applied. The manifold can be replaced and re-torqued. The final steps are reconnecting wiring harnesses, restarting and checking for leaks.
If your sure that it is leaking around the distributor then replace the distributor gasket or O-ring. It could also be leaking oil out of the back of the intake manifold. Gasket or sealer may have moved while tighting the intake bolts. Could be coming from the oil sending unit behind the distributor too.
Some bolts pass thru the water jacket so if you don't put sealer on the bolts the coolant can climb up the threads and puddle on the intake. I have removed them one at a time , cleaned the threads and reinstalled them with sealer and this fixed the problem. The dissimilar metals of the aluminum intake manifold and cast iron block have different expansion rates and eventually the lower intake manifold gasket will fail. All the bolts are not accessable without removing the supercharger. These bolts have a specific torque value and tightening sequence. Do the job right and remove the supercharger and intake manifold. Replace the gasket and reinstall the intake manifold using a thread sealer. Torque the bolts to 11 foot pounds and in the proper sequence. Coolant can leak internally into the engine, treat the problem not just the symptom. Hope this helps. "G"
its coming fron the engine Had the same issue and while yes it is from the engine not sure if there is anitifreeze anywhere else :) The source was the lower intake manifold gasket was leaking, common on this engine... I was lucky and it did not leak into the oil. The gasket does not cover the front and rear of the block, that is where the bead of gasket sealer runs up the angle to the gasket. Where the manifold meets the block at the angle is prone to leak. Took me a day to do but I was in no hurry. Hope that helps