no, but you can replace the gasket entirely add the sealant ensuring a leak free fit.
If your sure that it is leaking around the distributor then replace the distributor gasket or O-ring. It could also be leaking oil out of the back of the intake manifold. Gasket or sealer may have moved while tighting the intake bolts. Could be coming from the oil sending unit behind the distributor too.
NO. You MUST replace the intake gasket.
Depending on the motor you may need to put a small dot of silicone at the corners where the intake meets the head of a V motor. 4-6 cylindar straight motors don't use sealer.
its coming fron the engine Had the same issue and while yes it is from the engine not sure if there is anitifreeze anywhere else :) The source was the lower intake manifold gasket was leaking, common on this engine... I was lucky and it did not leak into the oil. The gasket does not cover the front and rear of the block, that is where the bead of gasket sealer runs up the angle to the gasket. Where the manifold meets the block at the angle is prone to leak. Took me a day to do but I was in no hurry. Hope that helps
Some bolts pass thru the water jacket so if you don't put sealer on the bolts the coolant can climb up the threads and puddle on the intake. I have removed them one at a time , cleaned the threads and reinstalled them with sealer and this fixed the problem. The dissimilar metals of the aluminum intake manifold and cast iron block have different expansion rates and eventually the lower intake manifold gasket will fail. All the bolts are not accessable without removing the supercharger. These bolts have a specific torque value and tightening sequence. Do the job right and remove the supercharger and intake manifold. Replace the gasket and reinstall the intake manifold using a thread sealer. Torque the bolts to 11 foot pounds and in the proper sequence. Coolant can leak internally into the engine, treat the problem not just the symptom. Hope this helps. "G"
The exhaust manifold needs to have a gasket in place to help seal the juncture between the manifold and the engine. After the gasket and gasket sealer are in place, tighten the bolts for the exhaust manifold. The exhaust pipe can then be replaced on the new exhaust manifold.
That's probably not a good idea. You could use silicone gasket sealer, but let it thoroughly dry before you start the engine, otherwise it could be sucked down the intake.
Intake Manifold (Cast Iron Heads) Non- Hardening Sealer 30 ft-lbs.
most likely its a leaking intake manifold gasket it usually leaks on drivers side where the manifold meets the forward head most times it leaks out of the first bolt hole for manifold.. if not sure replace sensor its 20 bucks if still leaking and want the cheap way out by BARS STOP LEAK large drain coolant a Little so sealer fit in then go for a 10 mile ride on highway 75% it will stop the leak and postpone a big job
Intake Manifold (Cast Iron Heads) Non- Hardening Sealer 30 ft-lbs.
Intake Manifold (Cast Iron Heads) Non- Hardening Sealer 30 ft-lbs.
Intake manifold (Cast Iron) is 30 ft/lbs with non-hardening sealer. Exhaust manifold 25 ft/lbs with anti-seize lubricant. Heads are 65 ft/lbs