Why would a car stop running while driving then not turn over again?

Answer 1

Here is some advice from contributors:

• Sometimes your car will just plain stop running if you have a faulty coil wire. I had this problem before where it didn't matter what time of day or the weather, it turned out to be a coil wire.

• I have an automatic '94 Nissan Sentra that would stop at the strangest of times (while it was being driven) at least once or twice a week. It would drive me crazy. I would take a turn at a light, and right in the middle of the turn, the *car's power would go out and stop. The only thing that would work was the brakes (thank God!). And then I had to quickly start it up again and pray that it would get me home. This was especially embarrassing when I had a date in the car. Does this sound familiar? Well, I found out it was an electrical problem, as well as a fuel pump that needed to be replaced. Cost me a good $300 to fix. That was about 2 years ago so I'm sure prices haven't changed much.

• My car used to just stop in the middle of the road, and then could restart no problems. It turned out to be that the alarm was old & faulty & the alarm was connected to an immobilizer which was a bit over-zealous - hence immobilizing in the middle of the road. The solution was simply to remove the alarm (the whole thing had to be removed though, it wasn't good enough just to turn it off).

• Because the gasket plate (insulator) is worn out, this happened to my 1984 Honda Accord. .

• I have a 96 Dodge Caravan and it would do some of the same things. Sometimes it would not start in the morning wait a few min. and then it would start, sometimes it would just cut out while driving. The solution after all the relays were changed was a new computer. It was covered under a Chrysler 8 year warranty. lucky me as it saved me $1000.

• I had my 92 Oldsmobile fixed it turned out to be torque converter needed to be replaced now the car works.

• if your alternator goes, no more power the engine will stop...

• This is a problem with a lot of vehicles that is overlooked for this reason: when a mechanic will hook up their computer and download the codes from the car's computer, the codes will generally tell you the problem the car or truck is having, if the car or truck kicked a code to the computer. Then the car or truck will run through a diagnostic system check and when the system check comes back fine and there are no problems then what?
• Sometimes the problem can not be found by the computer and the reason is that when the car or truck runs it's system check, everything checks out fine! How can this be when the vehicle just stops running and then starts running after you pull to the side of the road and shut it down for a couple of minutes?The answer is simple.The ignition relay acts like a breaker in a house; when you have a relay that is weak, you will get this problem. But the computer will test it as good because it still is good.It's just weak, making it trip.The reason it will start again is because the relay will automatically reset itself after the relay cools and you are off and running again.To explain the type of reaction your car or truck would experience if this were to happen is as follows:The car or truck will just plain die! no warning!IT WILL NOT spit and sputter like it is running out of gas. Now, a module for the distributor will act the same way, but the difference is that the car or truck will not continue to start after a period of time.My suggestion is a cheap way to fiqure this out: purchase a continuity tester at any local hardware store (they are only a couple of dollars) and check the leads coming from the distributer mod. If it is good, it will light up the continuity tester. If it is bad, it won't. This only works if the car will not run at all because the mod will check good if it is weak as well as the ignition relay.Another way to fiqure this out is to go to a local junk yard and pick up a distributer mod and a ignition relay and it will cost you maybe the better part of $10.00 and you may be worry free as long as you own the car with the used part.But if you feel uncomfortable putting used parts into the ingnition system, then replace one or the other but not both and see which one works and then buy new.

• Check your computer for trouble codes.Any problem will be stored in the computer,even if it is intermittent.

• Usually it is some type of fuel pick up problem, or fuel filter. It is possible the engine was slightly flooded, causing it to loose power. This all happened to me when i had an 1987 Corvette. One day i was driving, then it just stalled when i was on a local road. Thank god not on a freeway, cause when it stalled, the steering became locked up. But i did what the manual told me to do, if the engine has became flooded, push the accelerator to the floor and crank the engine. And that go me going again, and strait to the mechanics. It was all in fuel pick up and i need a new fuel filter.

• Just replace the distributor cap and roter. I had same problem in my Honda accord 98.

• My car stopped all of the sudden while driving. When I tried to start it, it started but within seconds the engine would turn off. So my car had to be towed. The problem happened to be the ignition switch which eventually had to be replaced with a new one. It cost me about $600.

• I had a 1990 Honda civic that would not start when the ambient temperature got high. I diagnose it and found that the base of the fuel pump relay situated just behind the dash had a poor solder connection.I re-soldered the connection and it was the end of my problem. Just thought you could possibly have the same problem.

• Most common problem I have found is the idle control value (aka. idle stepper motor). It sets the idle for the engine control computer. It bypasses the throttle plate. They get gummed up, I believe from PCV fumes.This has caused intermittent low idle/dying and start-up problems. The gum prevents it from responding fast enough. My Porsche had low cold idle. My Tahoe required tap on accelerator to start (usually flick of key). My Range Rover intermittent dying & inconsistent low idle. All idle control valve. FIX: Remove it and clean the spring/plunger with Carb cleaner. Also take cotton swab and clean seating area with cleaner. Sometimes replacement is necessary, mine have ranged from about $45 to $125 depending on vehicle and source.

• I had a Vauxhall Carlton 2.0i which would stop for no apparent reason. It was driving me mad. Just couldn't find the cause. In desperation, took it to the main dealer. He put in new plug leads, new distributor cap, new plugs, and 'tuned' it. It did exactly the same the next day. Back to the garage.In the end I found it myself. Locate your Fuel Injector Relay in your fuse and relay box. When your car stops, pull this relay out, and tap it sharply. Re-insert it, and if the car starts again, that's your problem. Apparently the inside circuit board breaks down, and a new relay is the only answer. Intermittent faults like this are a total pain. In fairness the dealer gave me a full refund for the work that they had done. someone else.

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Answer 2

Hello, since the newer cars are electronically fuel injected the major electronic sensors inside the injectors malfunctioned causing the car to not get the right mixture or any mixture at all, and with out mixture the engine will not turn over, therefore all the electically systems have shorted out and the spark plugs and ignition cannot fire at all...equaling no power or go. Scott

Just to throw my two cents worth in if its worth that LOL. I would first find and stop the oil leak replace the the distributor cap, rotor button, plug wires, and plugs and go from there. Many new cars are not equipped with all these parts so some may not have to be replaced. I agree also with the other post that the computerized electronic parts could be involved as well. , EzForJesus

A broken timing belt can and will cause this condition also.

If the vehicle happens to be a GM product, the fuel pumps are known to quit with no notice.

Answer 3

Not knowing what prior symptoms were being experienced before this happens, the causes can be any of the following:

* ran out of gas * battery died (yes, this can happen while driving if the alternator conks out) * ignition switch problem * fuel pump quit or fuel filter is clogged

Answer 4

If it won't turn over, it means your battery is dead or your connections are bad. If the car stopped while driving it likely means t he alternator has gone bad and the battery was drained to keep the car running as long as it could.

Answer 5

first check your battery stats,then check your charging system see if is charging 13.5v to 14.5 is a good number.2 check your fuel system see if you get the right preasure and if you have a preasure at all.3 ignition circuit for a lost signal couldbe a loose connection to ignition assembly or ignition going bad,coil,crank sensor,cam sensor ect.this is just the basic procedure that i would do .try it

Answer 6

first thing you want to check is does it have fuel? Then you want to check if it has spark {spark plugs.fuses.wiring) then you want to know if it has compression for the fuel. Then you want to check that all engine part are moving (clinder heads, and crank shaft. and you can check the crank position sencor.

Answer 7

Usually an ECU or ECM or one of those other similar 'modern' control boxes.

- Back in the days when people were actually meant to fix cars, running out of gas was about the only thing that stopped you while driving !

Answer 8

I had this happen to me once. It was a bad alternator.

Answer 9

when the engine dies

Answer 10

What causes a car to shut off when driving