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It's rod activated. Make sure the rod engages the switch properly (the end goes into a hole in the switch itself. Then make sure it is properly adjusted. The mounting holes in the switch itself are elongated, so the mounting screws are also the adjustment screws. Once you are sure it's adjusted and installed correctly, try it again. If it still won't start, the switch isn't the problem. Check all of the fuses if you haven't already. Check voltage at the ignition switch. If it is getting voltage, check voltage or continuity at the solenoid. If you aren't getting power or continuity there, check the wiring harness plug. It's on the driver's side, it actually plugs into the back of the fusebox and is held in place with a long screw. Remember, you're dealing with a 40 year old car here. Corrosion at this plug is common after 40 years. A good cleaning and repeated reseating of the plug can usually fix the problem. Make SURE you disconnect the battery before messing with the plug! If you have voltage (check the voltage with the wire DISCONNECTED from the starter!) at the small starter wire when the switch is in the start position (or continuity between there and the switch) then the solenoid itself is most likely the problem. Now, obviously I'm assuming that the solenoid is NOT clicking, and the starter is NOT turning. If they are, but it won't fire, check voltage/continuity at the ignition coil. This goes through the firewall wiring harness plug as well. That plug also provides power TO the ignition switch, so if it's not getting voltage, it's probably the plug. This is all a process of elimination. I'm assuming the entire car isn't dead, because that would point to the battery, battery cables, or fusible link. ALL of the electrical power in the car goes from the battery, through the cables, fusible link (except for the starter lead) main harness plug and fusebox. From there it goes through the ignition switch, back through the fusebox and main harness plug. Those are the places to check.

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12y ago

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