Most likely a bad starter drive Could be a chipped tooth and ring gear Try rotating the engine with a large socket on the crankshaft (Make sure it is in neutral if std.) If it does not make this noise after turning engine manually probably a chipped tooth
If an alarm system will not allow a vehicle to start the kill-switch is engaging. The brain of the alarm will need to be disarmed in order for the vehicle to start.
Engine is out of time or the plug wires are installed incorrectly.
If the starter makes no attempt to crank the engine and you did not disconnect the negative battery cable from the battery during the clutch job, maybe the battery drained from something left on while you had the truck apart (ignition left on, doors left open, etc).
If your car makes a clicking sound when you try to start it, try to jump the battery. If that starts it, check the electrical system and if it was the battery, replace the battery. If jumping it does not fix it, have a mechanic look at it.
Sometime the fuel pressure leaks down went he engine is turned off for a couple hours or more. If that happens the engine may be difficult to start later. Try turning on the ignition switch for a couple seconds allowing the fuel pump to build a little pressure, THEN crank the engine. See if it makes any difference.
sounds like a loose or worn belt.
Is it when the ignition lights on the brake lights are stuck on? If so adjust the brake light switch at the pedal.hope this helps Answer: Its the park lights. The vehicle is probably in park.
If an alarm system will not allow a vehicle to start the kill-switch is engaging. The brain of the alarm will need to be disarmed in order for the vehicle to start.
its s stroker crank that makes the 350 a 364
A malfunctioning battery can't provide enough power to your ignition system when the motor is idling can cause sputtering. If there is not enough gas, that can cause your vehicle to sputter. If the spark plugs fail to fire will also cause your vehicle to sputter.
Does it crank?
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Its essentially a lever.
starter
faulty starter motor
On the intake manifold, there should be one for each cylinder. It helps start the vehicle, it makes the spark that ignites the fuel in the manifold.
Obviously your starter is NOT the problem. I also assume it starts fine when cold? I'd ask a few more questions to help diagnose the problem but here are a few places to begin.Newer vehicles with electronic ignition have what is called a "start sequence." You need to find out where in the start sequence something isn't working when the vehicle is hot. Number one, pull the computer codes. If the vehicle is drivable, AutoZone can do it for you for free. Buy a Haynes Repair Manual when you are there. I found one to be very helpful in a similar situation with a different vehicle.There is a relay called the "ASD" or automatic shut-down relay that is designed to shut off fuel, spark, etc. in the event of a roll-over. If the relay is bad, the vehicle will not start. I'm not sure if it will crank or not in this circumstance. Sometimes relays and sensors only have problems when hot.If the vehicle runs when cold then quits after getting warm/hot, that can be one problem.If the vehicle runs until you shut it off then will not restart until good and cold, it is likely one of the electronic ignition sensors. A few of the sensors are: coolant temp., crank position, and cam position sensors. If it isn't one of those sensors, it may be your ignition coil.I hope something here helps.Good luck.Len