All of the components you will need to create this have ratings which you need to calculate and understand. You have to add to your question the amount of current flow you expect to use to get a complete and useable answer. You will make a variable (potentiometer, which is a dial knob) regulator to be able to reduce the AC voltage and then you'll attach a bridge rectifier (diode trio) following your circuit to create pulsating DC. Then, if needed you will construct a choke filter to create, additionally, straight-line DC. Choke filters are commonly seen around as noise filters which stiffle alternator buzz in autos and 60 cycle hum in 120 volt amplifiers, most notably when there is a magnetic field in the line power, such as that created by fluorescent lighting. The hum/buzz is primarily created by the reversing of the polarity of the "alternating" current They are a capacitor/resistor (RC) sub-circuit. Then attach a DC volt meter to read the output voltage of your regulator and fine-tune your voltage with the variable potentiometer while watching the changing voltage on the meter. kevinchristie9@aol.com
Hi there the voltage regulator isnormally located at the back of the alternator which is located at the front side of the engine. there is a simple way to check that the regulator is working and that is to connect a multimeter to the car battery but before connecting it to the battery make sure that the multimeter is set to 20 volts dc then connect the red test lead to the battery positive terminal usually marked with a + mark and the negative test lead to the negative battery terminal then start the engine you should get a reading of 13.8 volts then rev the engine slightly and observe the reading it should increase to between 14 and 15 volts but no more than this if it is much higher then the regulator is probably faulty test 2 with the meter still connected to the battery and engine running switch on all lights ect and the voltage should drop below 13 volts switch all lights ect off and it should return to 13.8 volts this will confirm the voltage regulator is working. hope this helps from kev.
12-13 volts DC
I'm not sure I understand your question. An alternator will have to produce 13 volts to charge a battery at 13 volts. Most alternators are able to produce 14+ volts but the range is 13.5 to about 15.5 volts.
With engine running, ensure system voltage is in the 13-14 volt range.
Should charge between 13 and 14.5 volts
Should really charge it then test it with a proper battery load tester. All you can do on your own is get a multimeter and check the voltage. Without it running and having sat for a 1/2 hour or so the voltage should be approx 12-12.5 volts. Start the engine and if the alternator is good the voltage at the battery terminals should be 13-14 volts. If without the engine running the battery voltage is 12 or less this may indicate that the battery is not holding a charge. Even then the voltage should go to between 13-14 volts when engine is started showing that the alternator is working to charge the battery. If when started the battery voltage stays around 12-12.5 volts or less I would suspect the alternator. Just to double check there is the main power out terminal on the back of the alternator. With the engine running check the voltage. If 13-14 volts is present at the alternator but not the battery the circuit in between the alternator and battery is suspect. If the voltage at the alternator is the same as at the battery (12-12.5 or less) the alternator or voltage regulator may be defective.
three options, your headlight is drawing too much power, your alternator isn't putting out enough power, or your battery is shot.Leave a slow charger (like 2 amps) on the battery over night. Take the charger off the next morning, leave the bike for several hours without running it. Check the battery voltage. It should be about 12 volts. Now start the bike. It should be about 13-15 volts. Rev the engine while checking battery voltage. It should still be 13-15 volts.If the battery was not 12 volts after sitting, then it's junk, get a new one.If the voltage while the bike was running was not 13-15 then your alternator is not working. Either the regulator/rectifier is bad or the stator is bad.If the voltage was above 15 volts at any time then your regulator/rectifier is bad.If it passes all these tests, then make sure the lights are not switched to "bright." If it's not, then replace the headlight bulb, they can sometimes overdraw power.
Charging System Output Voltage RangeTo my knowledge, unless there are vehicles that are exceptions, the acceptable output voltage specifications for all auto alternators is within the range of 13 volts to a maximum of 14.6 volts.
the easiest way to check if the stator is gone is by taking a volt meter (dc) hook to the battery it should show at least 12.7 volts fully charged. start bike with meter still hooked volts should go up when you give it throttle. up to about 14.5 max. if meter volts don't change your stator is shot if it jumps to around 18-19 volts your regulator is shot. this is the quick way to check your charging system To test your stator, unplug the regulator from the socket. With a meter set on AC above 100 volts, insert the probes into the stator socket. Start the bike. When you give the bike throttle you should see AC current about 16 to 20 volts per 1000 RPM. You should see about 32 to 40 volts @ 2000rpm. Anything below that, and your stator is faulty. To test for a bad regulator, unplug the regulator from the stator. With a test light, make sure you connect the ground well on the test light and touch each pin on the regulator. If the test light lights at all, your regulator is bad. If you test from the battery terminals, you are checking the whole system. With the meter switched to DC above 20 volts, apply the positive and negative probes to the positive and negative probes on the battery with the battery cables attached. Have a friend start the bike and slowly apply throttle. At idle you should have at least 13 volts. This output should increase as you rev the bike up to about 14.7 volts. It should never exceed 14.7 volts. If the voltage does not rise with throttle, your regulator or stator could be bad which is why you want to perform the test I listed, as listed. If the voltage rises above 14.7 volts the regulator is definitely at fault. The regulators on these bikes are notorious for going bad. The regulator and rectifier circuit are housed in the same unit.
from 13 to 15 V approx
There are several ways to reduce 18 volts to 5 volts.You could build a voltage reduction circuit using resistors: If the device you wish to power at 5 volts takes 120 millamps, you would need to find a resistor that will "absorb" 13 volts (18 volts - 5 volts). Using Ohm's Law R = E / I, the resistance of the resistor must be 13/0.120 i.e. 108.333 ohms. Its wattage can be calculated using the Power Law W = E * I which is 13 * 0.120 i.e. 1.56 watts, so a 100 or 110 ohm resistor of 2 or 5 watts power rating would be able to do this job.A better way is to use a voltage regulator such as a 7805 or a LM317 to reduce 18 volts to 5 volts.Yet another way is to use a buck converter switching regulator. This will let the device run on a single battery over 3 times as long as any of the above techniques, although it is more complicated and slightly more expensive.A Discussion has been opened about this question and answer. To read it and take part in the discussion, please click on the View Discussion button below.
13-15 volts, depends on what the computer wants.