How do you remove the clock from a Honda CR-V 98 model?

Answer 1

The whole assembly with the vents, clock and hazard button needs to come out first.

1. Using a wide blade such as a putty knife pry the assembly up a little at the bottom so it clears the dash. 2. Pull the bottom out as it clears, and the top of the assembly will follow. 3. Once you have the assembly out, remove the plugs from the clock and hazard switch. 4. Remove the two Phillips screws that hold the clock into the assembly.

If your clock isn't lighting, try disassembling the housing by prying back on the four clips holding it together and examine the circuit board inside looking for bad solder connections. All of the components on the board are surface mounted. I found a bad solder joint on what appears to be a large resistor partially located beneath the display board. I believe it was labelled "590". I pushed on it with a small screwdriver and saw that the leg of that resistor that is not under the display board had a bad solder joint. I re-soldered that leg and plugged the clock into the harness without placing it back inside the housing and it was lighted again. Placed the board back inside the housing and re-attached it to the vent assembly with the Phillips screws, plugged the hazard and clock plugs back and snapped the whole assembly back into the dash. I now have a working clock.

Hope this helps

From Paul:

This really does work. There are surface-mounted resistors labelled "300" that need to have their solder joints touched up - I did that to my clock because it stopped working. This is a great solution to the problem and it really works - Thank you!

From Dave:

Thanks. I used this and it worked. Owners beware. Honda wants almost 250.00 for a new clock. The 1998 series clocks are flawed with a few bad soldering joints as mentioned. Carefully inspect. Problem is with summer / winter months, eventually crack some of these joints. I only had to re-solder one joint and it worked again. LED's rarely fail over time.

From ice-surfer:

Thanks. I used this on the clock for my 1999 CRV to save significant $$s over a replacement. I could not determine which resistor was causing the problem so I re-soldered the ends of all the large (black) resistors that were accessible.

A note to help others remove the vent/clock/warning light switch assembly: There are 4 clips at the bottom of the assembly that are fit into an undersized rectangular hole. These clips do not lock in, but they provide a significant 'friction fit' The top of the assembly has 4 plastic pieces that act as a hinge. There are 2 clips under each vent, there are no clips in the center under the clock and warning light switch. You don't have to press up on the bottom clips to release them (unlike many electrical connectors) you just use the putty knife to get the bottom rotating towards you.

From Bob677: I love the internet. This totally worked for me as well. The solder joint that was bad on my was on the resistor that was half under the display. Of course the joint that was bad was the one actually under the display not the one that is easy to get to. I had to de-solder the front two legs of the display and bend the display up out of the way to get to the bad joint. Once the bad joint was re-soldered and the display re-soldered to the board it was back to working order! Ours broke on a cold winter day just as mentioned above. Thanks a bunch!

From Wonderboy70: I love the internet also! I never would have figured this out. Now I see how the guy on eBay can guarantee a repair on them. It sounds like it a very common problem!

I found bad solder joints also on both the 300 ohm resistor partially located beneath the display board, and I also found the 500+/- ohms resistor 1/2 under the display closer to the centre. A few minutes with my iron and electrical solder and it was fixed. From what I read most feel in colder climates the temperature change pulls on the solder joints and they break. I see one post a resistor had fallen right off and they replaced it with one from radio shack. Mine was still there just solder was broke on one end only of two of the three resistors. So if you are handy with a soldering iron and have an extra 30 min. or so you should be able to fix it. Good Luck! Mine works!

Yep I can confirm too....I re-soldered both sides of 3 resistors and all works fine now :).

The one under the led panel was a bit tight tho.