I have an 87 CRX that wouldnt idle & kept dying. I had to keep one foot on the gas and the other on the brake when at a stop. First mechanic I took it to told me I needed a new or rebuilt carb. Second mechanic actually fixed it! The carb's are factory sealed so you cant mess with the fuel mixture. My mechanic removed the carb & unsealed the fuel mixture adjuster and then "adjusted" it. Car runs like a dream now! and it cost less than 300 - unlike the carb rebuild which was going to cost 580
Have your mechanic look at it and see if this is the problem.
If you take off the air cleaner off, sometimes there is a vacuum line that will come off and make the car not idle while in gear and at a dead stop. My 86 had that problem and i just hooked the hose back up and it runs fine. As far as your car not idling when cold, sounds like your carb is not choking like it should. You may need to turn up the idle on the choke, and not the carb .
You can't.
If you have a problem with the thermal switch, your fans will not come on at temperatures that will switch the fans to on in order to cool down the engine temperature. If you have a problem with the switch (faulty, burnt out), the only way to fix it is to replace it.
Only if the engine is not cranking. Otherwise the problem is engine related.
not enough octane in your petrol. To stop the run on, turn your engine off while it is in Drive. Then switch to Park
Once the problem has been resolved switch off the ignition, leave it a few seconds, then switch on again and the engine fault light should be off. If it remains on then there is a possibility you may have more than one fault.
Check the wire on the kill switch, usually located on the throttle at the carburetor. This wire grounds out the magneto.
A 1976 Ford Bronco would still have a carburetor for the engine , so it does not have a fuel pump shut off switch ( inertia switch ) like the Ford fuel injected engines do ( that use an electric fuel pump ) * if that is what you mean
the load of the AC compressor slows the engine
In most cases, the engine will not fire or start if the clutch switch is bad. The key will turn in the ignition but there will be no turn-over or sound from the engine. If the engine turns over but doesn't start, there might be a problem with the fuel supply.
The kill switch wire is either disconnected or broken. Follow the wire from the OFF position of the ignition switch toward the engine where it connects to another wire coming from under the engine shroud. If everything is okay between the switch and where the two wires connect, you will have to remove the engine shroud to look there.
The most likely cause would be the stator assembly. By disconnecting the cannon plug for the key switch harness, at the engine, you can isolate the problem to the engine, or the ignition switch / harness assemblies. With the harness disconnected, spin the engine over with a starter button, connected to the solenoid. If the engine now has fire, the problem is in the ignition kill circuit, (ignition switch, emergency kill switch, or harness assembly). If a no fire condition still exists, the problem is in the ignition system, on the engine itself. The stator, and related ignition components can be tested with a volt / ohm meter.
There isn't a switch to reset the light. You 'reset' the light by fixing the problem which is causing the light.