The most obvious reason is that you still have a knock that the sensor is picking up. You can try an octane booster or next time you put in gas put a few gallons of high octane in. Then see if problem goes away. But lets say for sake of argument that there is no knock happening.
The sensor works on a process where it vibrates at high frequency. This frequency creates a voltage which is then sent to the computer for inspection. So its putting out a vvoltage even when disconnected. You can put on a good voltage meter and see what its output is. Then rev the engine and continue checking. If the frequency and voltage are OK then the computer sets the program accordingly for fuel injection. If the reading is not OK then it turns on the light and sets the fuel injection volume down.
The signal is critical to performance and needs to have a good ground. I ran an extra ground wire from the battery to a location near the sensor. Then I attached it to the grounded shielding on the sensor wire. This helped for awhile but the real problem was the wire itself. I think the heat and high frequency caused internal leakage in the old wire. So I replaced the whole wire and ran it along the rear of the fire wall instead of in the wire harness. Then reattached the wire to my good ground. This fixed the problem.
Because of the high frequency you have to have a good meter that can read the voltage produced. Some shops will inspect this for free. I will try and find the information and give an update.
if there is not a small two-wire sensor in the side of the air filter box cover, then it is built into the MAF sensor. If it has a separate IAT sensor, then the pigtail for it will actually be off of the MAF sensor harness pigtail.
speed sensor is located on the rear side and top of differential it is held in place with one bolt disconnect electric pigtail remove bolt, pull sensor out insert new sensor replace bolt reconnect pigtail
Check all your grounds
Closed loop fueling not achieved bank 2 Possible causes - Fuel delivery system - Engine Coolant Temperature (ECT) sensor or wiring connectors - MAP sensor or wiring connectors - O2 sensor wiring or connectors - Engine mechanical system
Try replacing the pig tail to the Air Inlet Sensor
Unplug sensor--- sometimes you can get a wrench on the sensor if not you will have to purchase the special socket.Genuine parts are often high so you can get the sensor at an auto store directions are included with the sensor as how to attach the pigtail and ude the heat shrink tubing suppied
I had the same problem bud. Remove and inspect the crankshaft sensor. Also clean the connector pigtail inside with a spray for electronic contacts. Inspect the connector pins of the pigtail closely for damage. Get your sensor at Oreillys NOT autozone.
gas pedal cable?, fuel pump?
replacing speed senor is not a hassle. all you have to do is find SPEED SENSOR, all cars are different, in my honda theres 4, i have replaced two already. speed sensor should be on transmission. remove bolts and pull out. simple put in new sensor.
on the drivers side underneath the engine by the front tire. You will notice a pigtail leading to the exhaust in this area. This o2 sensor is the main sensor, there should be a catalytic o2 sensor located after the converter.
The cam sensor is on the front of the block,just above the timing cover. It is held on with one bolt.There is a pigtail lead coming out and up around the alternator.
The iat sensor is in the air filter element. First you take the air filter cover off then you take your air filter out and pick up the housing you will see the only connector with a pigtail. That is your iat sensor!