Can be a defective ignition switch which I suspect is your problem. Not the tumbler you insert the key into but the ignition switch located down under the dash behind the steering column. Can also be a loose or corroded battery cable, or the connections at the starter. There is a starter solenoid that can be bad but it is built into the starter which you replaced.
There are a few possibilities, Make sure the battery is fully charged then check to see that the wire going from the solenoid to the starter is clean and tight. Sometimes the connection gets corroded. If these check out I suggest pulling the starter and taking it to the auto parts store and have them test it. Always disconnect the battery first before you remove the starter.
If there is clicking, that means the car has power from the battery so the altenator and the battery are good. I would suggest that the starter is gone bad. It will eventually grind away to where there is no clicking.
I suggest you get a battery hydrometer and check it periodically until it is charged. Overcharging depletes water from the battery. Undercharging shortens the battery life.
I suggest you check the "fusable link".This is part of the battery cable system near the battery or starter. . John In Montana
AnswerI would guess it would be a connection. Clean and Check your battery connections. Check your connections to the starter solenoid and alternator especially fusible link near the starter solenoid. Chances are it's probably a battery connection, or at least I would start there and move onward. You may want to check your wiring to your computer. My voltage regulator was overcharging my car, and as a result my car lost all power and my battery was fully charged, possibly over charged. I would suggest you take it to a shop and have them test your electrical system and see if it is in fact your regulator
The proximity of contour lines indicates the steepness of the terrain in a particular area. Closely spaced contour lines suggest a steep slope, while widely spaced contour lines suggest a gentle slope.
yes you can but i strongly suggest not using any electronics or you will drain your battery really fast as long as you have enough power to turn over the starter then your good to go.
More in likely the click your hearing is actually the starter or starter solenoid. This however could mean a few things. First: Check the connections of the battery terminals. Make sure that the posts of the battery are clean and free of corrosion, then check the battery cable terminals as well. Corrosion on these could lead to a faulty connection and not allow the battery to give out it's full potential. Secondly: Make sure your battery terminals are good and tight. Do not over tighten them, but make sure they don't move around at all. A loose connection here could not only drain the battery over time, but also make you believe you have a dead battery. Always check this if your battery is thought to be dead. Many of the times this can be case. Third: Have your battery checked if these don't work after jump start and given time to charge. If you required a jump start, let the battery charge with the Alternator for about 30-45 mins (If fully drained - I.E. headlights dim) The Alternator can be checked very easily with a Voltmeter; while your vehicle is running, place the leads of the voltmeter upon the battery posts, if it reads around 14 volts then the alternator is working fine. If all of this didn't fix your problem, and you have a charged battery, but the vehicle still will not start and still makes the chatter, then i would suggest to have your starter tested, if found bad, then replace it. On some older vehicles they have the starter Solenoid as a very separate piece of equipment. If the starter is good, then have the "Starter Solenoid" checked.
I would suspect a blown fusible link inline with your starter, a blown starter relay, or a bad starter solenoid. Test for a blown fusible link with a volt meter; pos lead at the power cable to your starter and neg lead to ground. It should show battery voltage. Test your starter relay by removing it and then jumping the the coil terminals ( they are marked on the side or labeled 85 and 86 euro cars ) with a fused lead from the battery pos terminal and ground. When power is applied to the coil leads continuity should be present between the swith terminals ( 30 and 87 on euro cars ). When no power is present resistance should be infinite. If these check out remove your starter and bench test it with a fully charged good battery.
More than likely you have a bad starter, I would suggest (if you have the tools) taking the starter out and having it tested at a local auto parts store.
The starter probably has a short in one of the windings. So the power from the battery is flowing through the cable, through the starter and straight to ground. This is overloading the starter cable as it is not designed for that sort of load and is cooking itself. I suggest pulling the starter off and bringing it to an auto parts store to have it tested, or having the car towed to a repair garage for them to inspect and likely replace the starter.
The computer must not be in sleep or hibernate mode for it to charge. The battery's memory may be broken, you may have charged it into a secondary USB port. I might suggest, if you can charge it, to charge it FULLY and then let it run all the way out, so that the battery's memory detects its real battery life.