During an alignment job my shop melted my cv boot while heating the tie rod end for adustment. Because something is pressed on, they ordered the entire shaft. Mazda dealers would not sell them a boot and because their policy is to not farm out any work, ordering the shaft cost them more money than sending the car to Mazda to change the boot. This was the passenger side shaft. Hope this helps.
To replace your CV joint you will have to slacken your hub nut before jacking and removing the wheel. Remove hub nut, remove both bolts on the bottom of the shocky, remove bottom ball joint bolt. You should have enough play to remove your shaft from the hub. Remove CV boot, CV joint should just pull off shaft. I made the mistake of buying and fitting a full drive shaft unnecessarily.
need information to removal of CV shaft from 2005 Mazda 3?
I am assuming the axle cv joint itself is bad an not just the boot. If the cv joint is bad you will have to replace the whole axle itself. 1. Drain transmission fluid. 2. Remove wheel. 3. Loosen and remove axle nut and remove whatever is necessary to free axle from wheel/suspension area. 4. Using a prybar or large screwdriver pop axle out of transmission and replace.
Hi! It can be a little bit different at each type of car but here is a guide for a mazda mx3 which can be a good starting point: http://mazda-mx-3.info/lower-ball-joint
Hi! It can be a difficult task but here is a nice guide to start with pictures and insturctions: http://mazda-mx-3.info/lower-ball-joint
About 3 hours.
don't repalce just the cv joint. You should purchase a rebuilt axle, it will be cheaper and easier. You should be able to get a repair manual from you local library. This should be a fairly straight forward job.
cv ball joint entire sealed part approx cost $20-25 and labor 2-3 hrs at non-dealer shop varies from $35 to $75 per hour so call ahead to get a shop's labor rate BEFORE you hand car over to them....
no. it is bolted to the lower control arm with 3 bolts. look underneath the control arm
Step by step process is as follows: 1) Loosen the CV joint nut prior to jack the car up if you can. 2)Jack up the car, put jack stands underneath when you reach your desired height, jack stands are the safest way to keep your car up. 3)Remove the wheel 4)Remove the Tie Rod from the strut assembly 5) Remove the lower control arm from the strut assembly 6)Remove that CV joint nut Now the strut assembly might get in the way from pulling the CV joint axle from the Transmission you can try to find something to hook it to while with a bungee cord or something. The CV joint should slide right out from the "middle of the rotor" 7a)If you have a CV puller that fits your CAMRY you are going to want to slide the puller around the axle as close to the Transmission pan as you can. 7b)If you do not have a puller you can try to pry it off with a pry bar this will take some perseverance. 8) Once you get the axle loosened from the transmission you are going to want to slip a drip pan underneath where the axle goes into the transmission, Transmission fluid will flow from the hole. 9) You can now pull the old CV Joint out of the transmission all the way. 10)Work the new CV joint axle into the transmission (BE CAREFUL NOT TO HURT THE BOOTS) 11)You may want to knock it in with a hammer gently until it is in all the way (I recommend a rubber mallet) 12)Work the CV joint back into the "middle of the rotor" 13)Hand tighten the CV joint nut onto the cv joint 14)Connect the lower control arm back to the strut assembly. 15)Reconnect the tie rod 16)Replace the tire 17)Use a torques wrench to tighten the cv joint nut to 180lbs 18) Take the car off the jackstands 19)Replace the transmission fluid lost with new transmission fluid 20)Drive Safely!
Actually it is impossible to drive with a "busted" CV joint. The half shaft is comprised of a shaft and two CV joints at each end. There are 3 different kind of cv joints, but that's besides the point. The half shaft transfers power from the tranaxle to the wheels. If one goes, the car don't. You probably mean cv boot. The boot is what protects the cv joint from dirt and moisture etc. I have seen a cv joint fail anywhere from a month to a year and a half after seeing a torn boot. It is a gamble to drive like this. The centrifical force of the axle spinning flings the grease out of the joint. The joint goes dry, metal on metal action happens and it self destructs.
Yes it can, and if it is, trust me this just happened to me, you got to fix it as fast as possible. If you just blow it off you can be looking at some dire consequences. 1) The CV joint can abruptly fail and you will lose all drive power, if one CV joint goes your differential will NOT power the other wheel. 2) if you are driving at a good click, the RPMs on the CV joint will cause it to fail and the CV joint will tear up the inside of your engine. 3) In rare occasions the failure could cause one of your wheels to lock up and you will lose most if not all control of your car. Moral of the story is do not drive any long distances from your house on a bad CV joint unless you have money to blow on a tow. You can buy a replacement CV joint at any Auto Parts store for 75-125 dollars, I advice to get one with a lifetime warranty. DO NOT DRIVE ON A BAD CV JOINT!