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These notes are applicable to Miatas from 1990-2005. While doing this maintenance, there are some other items you can also do:

  • Check and turn Rotors - Front rotors should have a thickness of 16-18mm minimum, should not be warped have deep grooves
  • Bleed brake lines - this typically requires bleeding all brakes, starting with the rears first

You will require:

1. Socket set

2. Brake/Caliper Lube

3. Torque Wrench

4. C-Clamp or Caliper Tool

  1. Lift car on jackstands and remove wheel.
  2. Remove the lower bolt/slider pin. You will loosen it and then need to pull it out. This bolt can become dry may require with a bit of effort to remove.
  3. The caliper will still be connected at the top, but will now allow you to rotate it up to access to brake pads.
    1. You'll see 2 springs that are about the size of paper clips on top, that connect to 4 small holes on the brake pads.
    2. Each of the brake pads have thin, metal shims on the outside of each pad
    3. Look closely at the end of each brake pad. You'll notice the small, thin metal guide plates sitting between the brake pad ends and the calipers.
  4. Before removing it, inspect it closely:
  5. Pull off the pads. Most brake pads do not include new shims, so you will need to remove them from your original pads.
  6. Open the hood and open the top of the master brake cylinder. Looking at your engine, it's on the far left towards the firewall, the clearish, plastic cylinder. When you push the caliper back, you will monitor the fluid level to ensure it does not overflow.
  7. Use a C-Clamp or Brake Caliper tool to press the piston back as far as needed to fit the new pad in.
  8. Place the small, metal brake pad guides back into place at the top and bottom of the caliper. If you find them too easy to knock out, a little bit of brake caliper lube may help them stick while you put the pads on.
  9. Apply brake lube between the shims and the pads, and between the shims and the caliper. If not done, you will get squealing and will need to reapply the lube (unless you don't mind the sound!)
  10. Place the new pads in, minding not to knock off the metal guides.
  11. Place the metal springs back into place, the small 4 holes on the end of each pad.
  12. Attempt to place the caliper back into position. If it does not fit try sliding the caliper back back and forth a bit (towards and away from you). If it still does not fit, you'll need to push the piston further back.
    1. M10 bolts are torqued down 33-39 ft-lbs
    2. M12 bolts are torqued down 58-65 ft-lbs
  13. Once the caliper is back in place, lube the bolt/slider pin and replace it back into the caliper. Mazda manual states:
  14. Check brake fluid level and replace cap.
  15. Replace the wheel.
  16. Make sure to safely test and break in your new pads appropriately.
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15y ago

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