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Open Circuits

From what I understand of your problem, IF the fuse for that circuit IS good, then the problem is probably that the wiring of that circuit is "open,"[disconnected] somewhere.

For an electrical circuit to function, the circuit must be "" which" means that a conductor [wire] must be attached to the Positive terminal of the battery and run [through various harnesses and connectors, plugs, etc.] to the fuse, then to a control switch [not needed in this case of yours], then to the electrical device (in this case your "outlets"), and then another wire [called a ground] back to the Negative terminal of the battery. Sometimes the ground wire does not go all the way back to the battery Negative terminal, but instead connects to the body sheet metal near the device, and the body sheet metal is all grounded to the Negative terminal of the battery.

This continuous line of conduction makes a "circuit." IF any part of that circuit is disconnected at a connector, or a screw terminal, or at a sheet metal ground screw, the circuit is "open," incomplete, and cannot conduct the electricity.

The "fix" for your problem is for someone who understands and is experienced in automotive electrical systems to fully "troubleshoot" that electrical circuit to find and identify the defect and then to properly correct it.

Although there could be only one of many possible defects, you need to find it, and fix it in order to cause the circuit to work as it should.

Another thing that comes to mind is that often fuses will "look OK" yet be incapable of conducting electricity. How do you know that:

  • You even found the correct fuse to determine that it is "not burned out?" If you checked and confirmed good the wrong fuse that was an exercise in futility. And...
  • Even if it was the right fuse, how did you determine that it was "not burned out?" A visual check may not indicate a burned out fuse. You need to test it with a VOM [Volt-Ohm meter] to confirm that there is conductivity.
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15y ago

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