It will squeak
It's common for leaking power steering fluid gets on the serpentine belt - causing slippage and ultimately belt breakage.
I have the same problem on my 1998. I just replaced the serpentine belt and it still happens. When I turn on the A/C it gets worse. Any ideas what's causing it?
a/c condenser clutch
well it should not come off even if water gets on it. its most likely old and needs to be replaced
the problem gets worst and the belt sqeeks even louder
what they do is usually have a tournament for the belt until it gets down to the last to two that made it threw and the winner get's the belt. hope i helped!
By the way a water pump operates (driven by the serpentine belt), it runs all the time.Bear in mind that if the engine coolant is too old, or there is not enough anti-freeze in the coolant, it may start to freeze and turn to slush or actual ice inside the engine.No water pump will be able to move slush or ice around inside the inside.Another part that is important to the cooling system is the thermostat - which opens and closes to control the flow of engine coolant.
It could be your serpentine belt slipping, you should have the car checked out before it gets more serious.
Checking ribbed drive belts at every oil change, and the position of the self-adjusting mechanism indicator, will insure you catch a bad belt long before it snaps. The backside of the serpentine drive belt, or the smooth side, usually drives the water pump. If the serpentine belt gets oil soaked or glazed, it will slip and not provide the proper circulation to keep the engine cool. And if there is oil on the serpentine belt, it's coming from somewhere so you will need to find out where and fix it before putting on a new serpentine drive belt. Look for tears or abrasions. If you see any it means the serpentine drive belt is rubbing a pulley flange or bolt as it winds it way around. This will happen more often as the drive belt gets older. If this happens you may need to file a pulley flange smooth or bend something out of the way. Also look for pinholes and/or bumps. If you see any it means dirt and debris is getting in between the serpentine drive belt and the pulleys. Turn the belt around and see if there are chunks of the ribs missing. You can crank the engine to expose sections of belt as you inspect. A few, small widely spaced chunks are okay, But if there are many and/or close together, replace the serpentine drive belt. Hairline cracks are normal, but if they go into the backing, or flat side, of the serpentine drive belt you will need to replace it. A good rule of thumb for serpentine drive belts is that if cracks are observed 3 mm (1/8 in) apart, all around the belt, the belt may be reaching the end of its serviceable life and should be considered a candidate for changing. Small cracks spaced at greater intervals should not be considered as indicative that the belt needs changing. However, the onset of cracking typically signals that the belt is only about halfway through its usable life. If you take a very close look at the belt routing, it passes over a pulley wheel that is part of the belt *tensioner*. This keeps the belt tight as it drives the various engine parts (water pump, power steering pump, a/c, etc). On the side of the tensioner are wear indicator markings - extremely hard to see - clean the area with a rag and a flashlight will help. My opinion is the serpentine belt is such a critical part (can you say dead - stranded on the side of the road?), I replace mine about 30-50,000 miles as a preventive measure. Some experts recommend a 30,000 or 60,000 replacement interval. Btw, a belt costs about $20-30 See "Related Questions" below for more Serpentine belts can run in price from $20 to $100 depending on the make and engine.
feeds no coolant to your engine, then air gets into your engine which will cause it to seize up and shut down, car will constantly shut off when temperature gets to high(dosent take long at all). will blow your gaskets and engine this way
your liscense gets revoked next time u renew it :(
You must remove the serpentine belt first. A tensioner tool makes that easiest. Drain the coolant out, if it is not old it can be used again. Pull the pulley off the pump, use a screwdriver between the bolts to keep the pulley from moving. Loosen all of them first. then Take off the pulley. Remove the bolts, I think there are six not evenly divided out. Only the front part of the pump gets changed and the housing stays on the engine. Clean all surfaces. Use some gasket sealer (blue Form-a-Gasket) in the depression in the pump going around the outside of the pump. evenly tighten the bolts on the new pump. Re-assemble, add coolant, put back on serpentine belt. Done.