The correct answer is until you get the specified slack.
But you will find 1/4 turn will get you close.
With the brakes released and either the wheels chocked or the trailer brakes set, you rotate the nut on the slack adjuster until the brake shoes are tight against the drum. Then you back it off 1/4 to 1/2 turn. What tools you need specifically depend on which slack adjuster you have... you could have Bendix, Haldex,, or Wabco Meritor slack adjusters.
The difference between manual and automatic slack adjusters is the way in which the brakes are adjusted. Automatic slack adjusters have sensors that do not let the brakes get too loose or too tight. Manual slack adjusters have to be adjusted by hand and can be set too tight in some cases.
If you are referring to adjusting your truck's slack adjusters, then you turn the adjusting screw with a wrench (or ratchet and socket) clockwise (in) until it stops, then back it off 1/2 to 1 turn. DONE. If you are asking something else, then you gotta be more specific.
You'll need either a brake adjustment tool or a wrench (usually 9/16th) to rotate the nut which links to the slack adjuster. Depending on exactly what brake system you have, you may also need tools to either push in or pull out the mechanism which locks the slack adjuster in place. Rotate the slack adjuster clockwise until it locks all the way down, then rotate the wrench/brake adjustment tool counterclockwise two full turns to back the brakes off of the drum.
loosen the 7/8 main nut on the tensioner then back off the adjuster 12mm till there is enough slack to remove the belt
the correct way to adjust automatic slack adjusters is to raise the wheel off the ground so it will spin. determine which slack adjuster you have,they vary from manufacture to manufacture, and get the appropriate tool. tighten the slack adjuster, the movement of the tool should be fairly smooth and easy if it is hard and clicks then you are going the wrong way. so tighten the slack until it stops and the brakes are in contact with the drum. make sure the wheel does not spin. now back the slack adjuster off, this is where it should be hard and clicking. back it off a quarter turn and see if the wheel spins freely with no drag. if it does not then back off the slack in small increments until the wheel spins freely with no drag. if you are having a problem with the brakes loosing adjustment then you need to have it inspected and find the root cause of the problem.this is for informational purposes only, i do not advise anyone who has not been trained in brake operation to perform this task, it should only be done by a ase certified mechanic. Do you have disc or drum brakes? Do they only get hot when you use them, or do they get hot when just driving?
As far as adjusting the chain goes, to the right of the rear sprocket there will be a large concentric adjuster with slots in it. You'll have to loosen the two 6mm Allen head bolts on the swingarm just to the right of the adjuster. Then use a small wrench [turned sideways] and slip it in the slots of the concentric adjuster. If you push it forward, the chain gets loose. If you pull it back, the chain gets tight. You want to have about about 1 1/2" of play [up and down slack] in it when finished. Then tighten the Allen head bolts and you're ready to go !!
I have a 1995 Honda Passport, 3.2L. Look under the truck and find the alt. There is a slack adjuster under the alt. Loosen the bolt next to adjuster, then back off the bolt on the adjuster. Take off the bolt on the bottom of alt. Loosen the top bolt to the alt. You should be able to move the alt. to get the belt off.
The self adjuster brake kit is replacement hardware for the adjuster for the brake shoes. If there is a problem with the adjuster it might allow the brakes to back off causing a brake failure. If you are changing this yourself be aware there is a left and right side, if these are mixed up or not installed correctly you will have a brake failure. Best to leave it to a qualified mechanic.
once inside the primary, loosen the compensator on the front and the clutch basket on the rear. lay them out take old chain off, then put them back on at the same time and correctly tighten then use slack adjuster to tighten
They are the adjusters on the rear drum brakes. There is usually a oval shaped hole on the rear of the backing plate where you can use a special adjuster screw or a large screwdriver to turn the adjustment star. You want to adjust them for a fair amount of drag without the wheel and tire mounted on it. 'After adjusting that way and after you remount the tires, , back the car up , in a straight line a few times to set them automatically and to the correct tension.
The problem with the rear brakes locking up may be the self adjusting screws themselves. They should only tighten when reversing the car and hitting the brakes, putting the pressure on the drums in back instead of the rotors in front.