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Electrical Circuit Troubleshooting Sequence
This is personal opinion, but I always start at one end of the circuit; the easiest end.
In this case of a "blowing" horn fuse, I would start at the horn itself because it and much of the wiring of the circuit is relatively "open" and exposed inside the engine compartment. This part of the circuit is much easier to get to and work with than the wiring behind and below the instrument panel inside the passenger compartment.
The first "test" I would do would be to disconnect the horn wire connector plug which is usually within 2 to 6 inches of the horn. Then I install a "known good" fuse in the fuse block position for the horn, and push and hold the horn button panel on the steering wheel for several seconds to a minute. I then check the fuse to see if it has blown.
IF a short circuit exists between the fuse and the "open" harness connector [with the horn removed] the newly blown fuse confirms the short is in that section of the circuit. If that reveals no short, check the horn itself to see it it will work when connected to a 12 Volt source [battery or charger].
I check the horn by taking a couple of pieces of wire [not tiny, but moderately heavy] to use as "jumpers" from the battery to the horn [or you could remove the horn and test it with a battery or charger power supply on your workbench].
Connect one jumper from the Negative terminal of the battery to either terminal in the horn connector plug. Then connect the second jumper wire to the "other" terminal inside the horn connector plug and then touch it to the Positive terminal on the battery. If the horn works, then the short is not within the horn.
If the horn doesn't work, then I use a VOM [Volt-Ohm Meter] set to a high resistance scale [say the "thousands" scale] and touch the red and black test probes to the two connectors inside the horn connector plug.
If the meter needle doesn't move, or only moves a little bit, then the horn is not shorted. [If using a digital meter, the indicated Ohms of resistance should change none or very little.]
IF the needle moves all the way to the other end of the meter face, that indicates no resistance or very little, and suggests that the horn is shorted internally.
Next I check the circuit wires and connectors from the horn to the firewall penetration connector block. Look for any wire that has been "pulled" tight around a sharp edge of the body sheet metal, or pinched between two mating sheet metal panels, or rubbed the insulation off against any contact with the grounded body sheet metal.
Then I go inside the passenger compartment and continue checking the circuit wires from the firewall penetration block to the fuse block. This part of the circuit is "downstream" from the blowing fuse. Any of the wiring from the blowing fuse back to the battery does not need to be checked as the fault will be between the fuse that's blowing and the horn itself.
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15y ago

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