it is located on top of the bell housing behind the engine
Gto http://www.brickboard.com/FAQ/700-900/ and search Timing. This is the ultimate Volvo 940 do it yourself site.
The 1990 Volvo 740 GLE is equipped with a B230F engine, which is considered a non-interference engine. This means that if the timing belt were to fail, the pistons would not collide with the valves, preventing severe engine damage. Regular maintenance of the timing belt is still crucial to ensure the engine operates smoothly and reliably.
for b230f it would be 28
if its a b230f 2-1-4-3
if you look on the front of the timimg belt cover it should tell what engine is in the car. also there is a decal on the left strut tower or inner fender with the engine specs on it. i would guess that you have a B230F unless it is the twin cam 16 valve engine. If you go to the Volvo web site you will find a VIN number decoder: http://www.volvocars.com/us/top/yourvolvo/volvo-vehicle-information-library/pages/default.aspx
For a 1995 Volvo 850, you typically need an oil filter that matches the specifications for a B230F or B230FT engine. A common replacement option is the Volvo OEM filter part number 1384780 or equivalent aftermarket filters such as those from Mann or Bosch. Ensure the filter is designed to handle the specific engine type and oil capacity of your vehicle. Always double-check compatibility with your specific engine variant before purchasing.
There is a timing mark (Notch) on the crankshaft pulley. It lines up with the 0 deg index line on the timing belt cover when #1 cylinder is at Top Dead Center. To check it, disconnect the battery take out #1 spark plug stick a straw in the hole and manually rotate the engine until the cylinder is all the way up. Be careful not to cut the straw in half. If it is wrong you need a new crank shaft pulley. The pulley has a neoprene sleeve between the hub and the shive (belt groves). Sooner or later the neoprene fails and the shive slips (rotates). This is often heard as a slipping belt sound that can't be cured by replacing belts. For more details go to http://www.brickboard.com/FAQ/700-900/ It is the ultimate Volvo 940 site.
There are two valves per cylinder, and eight in the virginal b230, but they also made a dual over head camshaft 16 valve cylinder head, these are less common. There are two valves per cylinder, a total of eight in the virginal b230, but they also made a dual over head camshaft 16 valve cylinder head, these are less common.
A general question will net a general answer. The short answer is around 3000lbs, give or take about 250 pounds, depending on options. Automatic transmissions add about 150 over the manual, and wagons another 250. Basically, if its a turbo wagon with auto, it will be about 3300, if its a base level sedan with manual, it will be about 2850lbs. My 740-1990 sedan, B230F, AW-71 transmission (automatic), w/o turbo, From my car registration 1358Kg * 2.2046 pounds = 2993,85 pounds
I'm having a very similar problem with my 1988 Volvo 760 with the B230F/T engine. We troubleshot the problem down to the ignition system. We have tested the car as best we can with this intermittent problem and feel it is either the impulse sender in the distributor cap (Volvo repair shop says is most replaced part involved in this problem), the power stage or the ignition ECU. If it would just fail consistently we could figure out which is the actual problem. Now in case your problem is different than mine (It seems it is, somewhat, as mine stalled "SOMETIMES" when it stopped and also would have two other symptoms - it would have a momentary loss of power that would be revealed as a brief dip in RPM and a slight lurch or a more lingering similar loss that would see the RPM drop to zero and would be similar to downshifting in a manual to save your brakes, but it would recover.) you need to go back to basic troubleshooting: Air Fuel Spark Check your idle speed. Make sure your air filter is good and your air/fuel mixing is not having problems like with a stuck butterfly valve. See if you've got any loose vacuum lines. Could your fuel filter be clogging? Is your fuel pump weak? Dirty injectors? Have you done a tune up (plugs, wires and maybe distributor cap & rotor) lately? Check your timing. I decided to do a tune-up starting with plugs and wires. When I went to take the #1 wire off it came apart in my hands! (I bought this car 2nd hand and haven't had it that long. The wires LOOKED good, but clearly they were not.) Does it run rough in idle? Anyway, that should get you started. If you have any manuals they have other suggestions (Chiltons, Haynes) I had a similar problem with my 88 760 Turbo Wagon...it turned out to be the fuel pump which was beginning to fail and overheat at low flows which were caused by a failing pressure regulator (not bypassing enough fuel). This combination of failing parts worked well under load, but as soon as I got off the gas, it would stall - cool down - restart and run fine - so long as I was not idling.