To advance ignition timing, loosen the distributor clamp and in very small increments turn the distributor body in the OPPOSITE direction of the rotor's normal rotation.
If you don't know which way the rotor turns, you can find out easily by removing the distributor cap and having a helper turn the engine over with the ignition key switch.
To advance the timing turn the distributor counter clockwise.
flash a timing light ate the small oping between the engine and the tranny visible from right under the hood easy you will see the fly wheel and if it is only a small adjustment loosen the bolts on the distributor its self (not the black distributor cap) and you can twist it a little to get proper timing.
loosen the 9/16 bolt on the hold down bracket, unhook the plugs from the distributor cap, remove the vaccum advance hose take off the plug wires and cap. pull distributor straight up and out.( the rotor will twist on its way out)
I don't have a Contour, but if it has a distributor, then you use a timing light and simply twist the distributor cap to change the timing. If it has coil packs, then it's all done electronically, and you can't adjust it. If your timing is still off, you have a sensor somewhere feeding the ECU bad info. ====================================================== All of the Contour engines' ignition timing is controlled by the computer, and is not adjustable. If there were any sort of problem in this area, the computer would turn on the "Check Engine" light and store an error code.
you twist the buttons
Should have a horseshoe type locking bolt at the bottom side of distributor--remove and twist to lift out
Chain, not bel
You losen the bolt were the distributor goes into the engine and twist the distributor little by little until its firing good, you have rev it up to tell.
find the timing spec on the label under the hood ( i think its 10 degrees BTC) get engine to operating temperature find the grey plug in the engine compartment labeled "diagnosis" open the cover and with a jumper wire, connect tmls. TE1 and E1 (this makes the engine run at base timing) clamp timing light around #1 plugwire clip power and ground leads of timing light to battery shine on timing marks, if the timing is off loosen the 2 12mm bolts securing the distributor to the head and twist until the mark on the pulley matches the spec. tighten the bolts remove timing light and jumper IGNITION TIMING: Carburated models Without vacuum advance hose connected: 3 degrees BTDC. With vacuum advance hose connected: 12 to 18 degrees BTDC. 1990 through 1993 fuel-injected models With test terminals T and E1 grounded: 10 degrees BTDC. Without test terminals T and E1 grounded: timing fluctuates between 7 and 17 degrees BTDC. 1994 fuel injected models With test terminals TE1 and E1 grounded: 10 degrees BTDC. Without test terminals TE1 and E1 grounded: timing fluctuates between 7 and 17 degrees BTDC.
To replace the distributor on a 1990 Honda CRX DX, first disconnect the battery to ensure safety. Remove the distributor cap and carefully mark the position of the wires for proper reconnection later. Unbolt the distributor from the engine, then gently twist and pull it out. Install the new distributor by reversing the removal steps, ensuring it's aligned correctly with the engine and reconnecting the wires as marked.
you'll need a timing light for this if it is ignition timing your'e checking. get the engine warm, find the "diagnosis" connector (its a little grey box near the passenger side front of the engine), open the box and jump the 2 terminals labeled "te1" and "e1". at the passenger front of the engine is the #1 spark plug and wire. you clamp the probe from the timing light around that cable. (if you're not sure follow the wire labeled "1" from the distributor cap) you'll want to clamp it near the plug for the best results. connect the power and ground clamps on the light to their respective battery terminals. start the engine and point the flashing light toward the timing marks (they are on the timing cover just above the crank pulley) the mark on the pulley should be getting flashed as it comes around to the marks. it should line up at 10 degrees before top dead center. if it does, your'e done! if not, loosen the bolt that holds the distributor in place and twist the distributor until the mark is lining up with 10 degrees. tighten the bolt back down and youre done! dont forget to remove your jumper and timing light.
One bolt at the rear of the intake manifold holds a clamp that is shaped like a Y. Remove the bolt, take the clamp off and slightly twist or rock the distributor back and forth and lift it straight up.
This answer is dependent upon the make and model of the unit, but as a general rule, you may require a timing light. This timing light should be connected (dependent on type) to the first spark plug on the boot, which will leave (again, depending on type) a spring sticking up above the spark plug to which you connect the boot. You will need to locate and mark the timing notch (depending on engine) on the lower fan pulley, and use a parts marker or white-out to fill that notch to make it more visible. Clean off any excess mark. Note that on many front wheel drive vehicles, this is different. The timing mark is on these vehicles behind a cover plate, on the lower toothed pulley that connects to the crankshaft, which makes these harder to work on. The objective is to see how far off you are on the timing. The first step is a diagnostic, when you start your engine, point your timing light at this pulley. By this pulley, there is often a mark that allows you to determine how far away you are from time (plus ten to twenty degrees, usually). These numbers refer to the distance between your mark and top dead center (which is defined by when the first cylinder is at the top of its travel with all valves closed). With the motor operating, the light should flash at regular intervals which, when pointed at the mark, makes it appear to be stationary. Compare this mark to the information listed in the manual for the timing setting on this engine at idle. If the light appears to jump around, with the old style distributors, you've likely got a loose bearing surface, or loose head within your distributor cap, or potentially a worn cap or rotor, or damaged condensor which is firing off time. Many older distributors used a system with a mechanical adjustment, a screw by the distributor base, that allowed you to loosen it and twist the distributor (gently) and observe the effect on the timing light's location. This allows you to adjust the system to factory spec. Note that you never should have a timing system advanced to the point of below zero degrees timing. This may cause reverse motor operation, which will destroy the motor. On most of the older mechanical distributor systems, as well, there is a vacuum timing advance for accellerative timing of the motor. This is an automatic system, and shouldn't need adjustment, though it can fail and require replacement, or create a vacuum leak which requires replacement of the tube. On more modern electronic ignition systems, the ECM computer (emissions control) adjusts timing advance, as well as dealing with fuel flows, and is a much more difficult system to troubleshoot, repair, or adjust. It's best to leave these to a certified mechanic.