Depends on alot of things- how tight were they made? are the studs and nuts rusted?, etc.
Well, isn't that a happy little question! When it comes to torque specs for the Isuzu 4BA1 cylinder head bolts, it's important to tighten them to 94 Nm in a specific sequence to ensure proper sealing and performance. Just remember to use a torque wrench and take your time, and soon you'll have a beautifully running engine to admire.
Experience. ----------------- If the bolt is horizontal : With weights, you can take a wrench of known length and knowing the torque needed, calculate the amount of weight needed to apply the proper torque to the wrench when it is horizontal. Otherwise you can only guess at it.
Set your parking brake, jack the vehicle up (refer to your owner's manual), take off the lug nuts, remove the entire wheel assembly (tire and rim), put the spare wheel on, put the lug nuts back on, tighten the lug nuts - preferably, to manufacturer's specs... if you don't have a torque wrench or know how to use one, you should take it to a service center and have them check the torque on the lug nuts - lower the vehicle, stow away the jack and flat tire, and you're on your way.
the v6 take 5.8 quart
To change a wheel on an Isuzu D180 truck at the roadside, first ensure the vehicle is on a flat surface and engage the parking brake. Loosen the lug nuts slightly before lifting the truck with a jack, then remove the lug nuts completely and take off the flat tire. Place the spare tire onto the hub, hand-tighten the lug nuts, lower the truck back down, and finally tighten the lug nuts fully in a crisscross pattern for even pressure. Always remember to properly store the flat tire and tools after completing the task.
Ah, torque settings can be like a gentle breeze guiding your brush on the canvas. For the Isuzu 10PE1 engine, the cylinder head bolt torque settings are typically around 148-155 Nm. Remember to tighten them in a crisscross pattern to ensure even pressure, like adding happy little clouds to your painting. Just take your time, follow the specifications, and trust in your steady hand.
The Torque Converter is part of the transmission, not part of the engine. The torque converter needs to come off with the transmission. You need to remove the starter to access the torque converter bolts/nuts and separate it from the flex plate. Besides loosing all of the fluid in the torque converter, you stand to damage converter seals and/or the pump if the converter isn't properly installed in the transmission.
The torque converter in in the front of the transmission, the trans has to be removed to take it out, it comes out at the same time with the transmission. When you unbolt the trans, remove the starter to access the converter nuts holding it to the flexplate(flywheel). **If you didn't know this you are probably not qualified to take on this job*** Doug C
Your rotors are warped. You will need to remove the pads and rotors and take the rotors to a machine shop and have them turned. Then install new pads. Make sure you torque the lug nuts to factory specs. Over-tightening the lug nuts can warp the rotors.
Torque in this sequence: Torx and 15mm headed bolts - 30ft lbs. The 7, 10 mm hex nuts - 5 ft lbs. The 7, hex head bolts - 5ft lbs. Take note not to overtighten as this will damage the timing cover.
4 quarts
55