the tool you are looking for is called a piston remover, sold at every local auto zone
As the rings in the piston wear on the wall of the cylinder, a ridge forms at the top of the cylinder. This has to be removed with a Ridge Reamer. It cuts the ridge down until the cylinder is smooth otherwise the rings in the piston would catch on it and the piston cannot be removed.
Once the cylinder is smooth, you can tap the piston out using the handle of a wooden handled hammer.
To install the piston back in, you use a Ring Compressor that squeezes the rings into the grooves of the piston. Put lengths of plastic tubing over the Rod Bolts so that you don't nick the crankshaft and tap the piston into the cylinder with the same wooden hammer handle.
A Caliper Reset Tool is a tool used to 'reset' the brake caliper piston on calipers with an integral handbrake system. The tool spins the piston while applying pressure to compress it enough to replace the old pads with newer thicker ones.
It is a tool to reset the piston on rear discs brakes
The piston retracts by turning it back in. You will need a Disc Brake Pad Spreader (Part Number: 648412) and a Disc Brake Piston Tool (Part Number: 648410) found at Advance Auto Parts. The Brake Piston Tool looks like a Rubik cube. Simply line up the knobs into the piston slots and place the disc brake pad spreader between the caliper and brake piston tool. Apply slight pressure on the piston via the pad spreader and turn the brake piston tool with a screw driver while continuing to apply pressure on the brake piston tool. From what I have read they could retracted by turning either clockwise or counterclockwise.
Typically, you take one of the pads that you removed, place it on the piston and use a large clamp to compress it back it. Some vehicle have pistons that screw in. Most autoparts stores have a free loan a tool program, where you can get a tool specifically designed to push the piston back in. If the piston is ceased and won't move, then you'll likely have to replace the whole caliper. After market parts are cheap and a rebuilt caliper is about $125. The 1995 has pistons that screw in I rented a tool from Auto Zone that made it a snap.
piston are all ready on the new minecraft beta and they will mot be removed.
By twisting the head of the tool, a detent is released and the head can be removed from the tool.
A c-clamp or it may be a screw in/out type. do not over extend the piston if it is a screw type. The screw type usually have a grove/groves on the face of the piston where a piston tool grabs on to. This tool is not necessary but it makes life easy. Available at any autoparts store. A c-clamp or it may be a screw in/out type. do not over extend the piston if it is a screw type. The screw type usually have a grove/groves on the face of the piston where a piston tool grabs on to. This tool is not necessary but it makes life easy. Available at any autoparts store.
If it is the front brake use a "C" clamp to retract piston If it is the rear and the parking brake is used by this caliper piston is threaded and a special tool (not expensive) available at Sears or auto parts to "screw" piston into caliper body
Gently, they break easily. They also make tools to R&R piston rings to avoid breaking the rings.
If they are the same as a 97 Maxima then you twist them, don't compress them. To compress the piston you do it with a 'Disk Brake Piston Tool'. You can get this at Pep Boys for $12. To compress the piston on the passenger side you turn the piston clockwise. To compress the piston on the driver side you turn the piston counter-clockwise. Be careful trying to turn the piston using pliers or some other tool as you may tear the rubber seal around the piston.
You can get a caliper piston compressor tool at most autoparts supply stores. Some even loan them for free if you buy your parts from them. Another option I've used is a thin piece of plywood [to protect the face of the piston] combined with a "C" clamp to press the piston back into the caliper. Usually, once the piston is fully returned into the caliper, the clamp and plywood can be removed without the piston moving back out. If it does, then recompress it, and just slightly "crack" open the bleeder screw [only momentarily to relieve the hydraulic pressure]. Then the piston should remain fully inside the caliper after the clamping pressure is removed. Good luck.
It forces the error to be rectified or removed