Well I have never tried to explain this in writing but here goes.
First your range selector needs to be in the down position (The black switch on the front of the shifter). Second the little blue switch on the left side needs to be back. About the little blue one - it can be set up for reduction on the low as well as the high side, so I can not walk you through your exact application. We will be talking about the deep reduction (blue switch) being on the low side. Also the actual gears can be a standard shift (dwn, over & up, then dwn and so forth) or the horse shoe style in which 3 & 4 are on the bottom and are side by side. Lets go with the standard.
O.K. clarifications to the side brings us to step 3. Press the clutch and place the shifter in 1st gear (mid upper) ease the clutch out and accel. Just about the point where you would press the clutch to shift - place your hand on the shifter and put a little pressure towards your next gear (drop down past neutral and into 2nd) as your foot releases acceleration the shifter will pull out of gear and depending on your exact application fall into the next gear (You will probably grind it until you get the timing down) repeat this basic concept until you get to 4th gear (5th if your trans has 1st as a low gear <which would be the position down and all the way to the left>) Now you are moving at about 25 MPH and it is time to go to your high gears. Your still on the throttle - flip up the black range lever and then put slight pressure pulling backwards on the shifter. Release the accelerator and you will hear a smooth quick clunk sound coming from the top of the tranny (it is in high gear range) place the selector in the 1st gear position (bottom left or top middle depending on where your 1st gear is). And basically repeat the previous steps until you get to the gear and speed you are trying to achieve.
You thought I forgot? The little blue one. This is the hard part to explain. Try not to think of the gears as whole gears. At this part think of them as gears that have two halves. The blue switch is a splitter. It splits the gears closing the large difference between shift points to allow you to catch gears quicker under heavy loads. We are going to assume your splitter is setup for the low side. Your in, say, 1st. the range is down, and the splitter is towards the back. While accelerating flip the splitter forward and KEEP IT IN GEAR AND CONSTANT THROTTLE. As soon as you pull it out of gear and start towards 2nd it is going to split the next gear (2nd) so you will have to give it about half throttle to catch it. Once you got it, and are accelerating, simply pull the splitter backwards and ease off the throttle it will shift into true 2nd gear automatically. It takes a lot of practice to get this down without grindiing. I tell all of my trainees to try to ease their minds when they first start learning "If you cant find it- Grind it" these trannys can take a lot of punishment UNLOADED. If you are loaded, don't try learning. You will certainly tear something up.
I agree with everything you said except the use of the blue deep reduction lever. It's not like a splitter in a 13 or 18 speed. For example lets say you start off in 1st with the blue lever forward (which is deep reduction engaged). You then shift through all 5 gears in the low side(not moving the blue lever, leave it forward). Then, to get out of deep reduction, pull the blue lever back and shift to 4th. That would be around a 30% step, the same as all of the other shifts. If you leave it in 5th and shift out of deep reduction, then you better be going down hill with a tail wind LOL!
Fuller Transmission shift diagrams.There are several places on or offline where you can obtain and Eaton fuller 15 speed gear shifting diagram. It depends what method you prefer. such as from your Truck dealer or a Truck Transmission Re-builder or someone who offers fuller transmission parts and service. For more information of sources online, see the Related Links section further down this page.
Both sending and receiving NICs must agree on transmission speeds.
No. Unless you have a "C" transmissions (e.g., RTOC, RTLOC, etc.), it's not convertible. A 10C transmission doesn't convert to a 13 speed - a 9C transmission does. A 10C converts to a 15 speed, which remains essentially a 10 speed with five deep reduction gears.
It's a 10 speed unsynchronised transmission which only incorporates five major shift motions. It works in a similar fashion to the top side of a 15 speed, except you must shift progressively through all the gears.
That all depends on what kind of vehicle it is and what engine & transmission it has. As a general rule, you could say for a typical 5 speed trans, about 10-15 mph shift to 2nd, around 30 mph, shift to 3rd, around 40 shift to 4th and around 50 mph shift to 5th
It's a little vague as to what your question is here. I'm a diesel tech and have over a decade of experience driving Class 8 trucks, and I've never heard of a "sinchronist" transmission. Either you're trying to say "synchronized", or you're trying to say "unsynchronized". If it's a split range, twin countershaft transmission, it's probably unsynchronized. This would include the Eaton-Fuller and Rockwell 8LL, 9 speed, 10 speed, 13 speed, 15 speed, 18 speed, and 21 speed transmission, as well as the Super 10. These don't have a synchronizing gear, and you have to account for the timing. For a beginner, you'd typically be taught to upshift at 1500 RPMs. You would depress the clutch (just enough to disengage the transmission, but not enough to engage the clutch brake), shift it into neutral, let off the clutch, depress the clutch again, and come into your next gear around 1000 rpms. Personally, I prefer to upshift at 1900 RPMs, but you'll get the feel for this over time, as you gain more experience with engine power bands and such. If you have a synchronized transmission (e.g., Eaton Fuller and Rockwell 6 and 7 speed transmissions, Volvo 14 speed transmission), DO NOT try to float these transmissions, ever! You will destroy the synchronizing gear if you do. They shift like a regular car transmission - get to your desired RPMs, push the clutch in enough to disengage the transmission, go up to your next gear, let off the clutch. As for shift patterns, I cannot say, as you didn't specify WHICH transmission you were referring to. Dump trucks come in all sizes from Class 3 trucks (e.g., Ford F350, Chevy/GMC 3500/Dodge Ram 3500) all the way up to Class 8 trucks (tandem trucks, tractor-trailers, etc.) and a wide range of transmissions can be found throughout, ranging from a regular five speed in an F350 to the unsynchronized MaxiTorque transmission to the Eaton Fuller 18 speed, and everything in-between. Have you considered a truck driving school? And, if you do have a CDL already, how did you ever pass this road test for the company (assuming you've been hired on) without knowing how to shift?
They were available in a number of different ratios. We would need the actual transmission nomenclature to determine the gearing. It could anywhere from direct drive 1:1 to .73:1.
The next step is the car's computer.
Answer:I had the same problem with my Taurus and found out that the vss (vehicle speed sensor) was sending a faulty signal to the transmission. autozone has it for $30.00 and it takes about 15 min. to put in.
Be smart and know for sure. Go or call the Chevy dealer parts dept in your area and ask for a transmission filter for your Prizm. They will ask you for your vehicles Vin Number from your registration card. The numbers from your registration will provide them with most if not all of your vehicles requirements including transmission information. If you want to do it yourself safely get under the car and count the amount of bolts on the transmission pan, it will be 15 or 18 bolts. Easier to call dealer. If you have a 3 speed transmission (Drive,2,L on your gear shift) you probably have a 15 bolt. If you have a 4 speed transmission you probably have 18 bolts. Hope this is helpful.
their are two different speed sensors on that car the input speed sensor which is located inside the transmission and the transmission needs to be removed in order to replace it and the other speed sensor is the output speed sensor which is located directly above the passenger side trans-axle shaft. your input sensor is the sensor which tells the transmission when to shift and the output speed sensor tells the speedometer what it should display and both those parts are fairly cheap they are around 15-25 dollars but just remember if your input speed sensor is bad it is gonna cost you a minimum of 1000 dollars to have a mechanic fix it because of the fact that the transmission needs to be removed.
Ed Fuller died on 1935-03-15.