Any voltage source, whether a generator or a battery, will NOT supply an output current unless it is connected to a load. So the only way to test the output current is by connecting it to a load.
load test on dc shunt generator is a test to plot the internal and external characteristics of the generator.
A bench and no load! Whatever you are testing has no load. It might be a generator or a motor for example. If a motor it wouldn't be connected to anything. If a generator it would have nothing plugged in.
synchronous generator
To test the generators reverse power relay to make sure the generator is spinning at the right speed and a fuel issue is not involved. If it is not a fuel issue you need to check the frequency of the electronic load and frequency. If both of these issues are okay check the diesel electronic control unit for dirt and dust. This unit needs to be clean.
in swin burn test we find out the copar loses & iron loses of the dc generator
load test on dc shunt generator is a test to plot the internal and external characteristics of the generator.
CHARACTERSTICS
Full load amps is the maximum rated amps that the motor should draw according to its nameplate rating. Running load amps is the actual amperage the motor is drawing at that point in time when the test is taken. Some motor loads vary depending on if the load is cyclic. The reading on this type of motor would be from no load amps to full load amps.
Rated output 135 amp, load test output 94 amp - this is assuming stock alternator, replacement alternators vary as some rebuilders mix and match parts...
When using a resistive load bank to test a generator, it does not matter if you load the generator to its kW or kVA rating, because those two numbers are the same when considering a resistive load. Power factor, which is the difference between true and apparent power, only comes into play when there is a reactive (inductive or capacitative) load.
A bench and no load! Whatever you are testing has no load. It might be a generator or a motor for example. If a motor it wouldn't be connected to anything. If a generator it would have nothing plugged in.
A bench and no load! Whatever you are testing has no load. It might be a generator or a motor for example. If a motor it wouldn't be connected to anything. If a generator it would have nothing plugged in.
There is a tool you can get at the autoparts store, like Napa. It plugs into the output and tells you where everythings at. I forget what it's called though, sorry.
It does not matter, when testing a generator with a resistive load bank, if you load it to kVA or KW. For a resitive load, i.e. non-reactive load, the power factor is one, so kVA and kW are the same.
Run the test signal through a small isolation transformer.
Check your Battery by doing a load test. If it passes a load test, you should check the starter to see how many amps it is drawing! Ranges vary on a battery load test depending on temperature. Usually if it goes below 9.6 volts at a room temp. or a bit colder, the battery has failed. I think a good starter should draw approximately 250 - 300 Amps.
You will probably find that 127/252 is the no load voltage, when you plug a tester into the sockets of the plugs on the generator. If you have the ability to test the voltage with the load plugged in you should find that the voltage has dropped to a more standard 120/240 or 115/230. Yes it is OK for temporary power.