If you are referring to house wiring then the answer is no. A breaker protects the wire size that is connected to the breaker. In home wiring most homes are wired with a #14 wire which is rated at 15 amps. That is why the wire is protected by a 15 amp breaker. The correct wire size to connect to a 40 amp breaker is a #8. This size wire is too large to connect to receptacles an light fixture terminals.
According to Square D, it accepts bolt-ons and plug-ins. I'm not much of a Square D guy, so I can't tell you for sure. Check the related link for the PDF containing this information.
Yes, the plastic in a wall outlet can over time get brittle. I recommend you replace any outlets and switches that are over 20 years old. I recommend you replace them and wire them by wrapping the wires around the screws and not by inserting the wires in the spring tension holes on the back of the outlets. An outlet that is subject to repeated plug ins and unplugging of a device should be replaced every 10 years.
If you are taking the fixture down yourself, please be careful. BEFORE ANYTHING ELSE, MAKE SURE THE BREAKER IS TRIPPED ON THE LINE YOU ARE WORKING ON. DO NOT RELY ON A SWITCH BEING IN THE "OFF" POSITION. IN OLD CONSTRUCTION, FIXTURES WERE OFTEN WIRED HOT WITH ONLY A SWITCH LOOP TO THE SWITCH. Ok, you have to start by "reverse engineering" - you have to figure out how the fixture was attached to the wall or ceiling. Once you've got it off the wall or ceiling, but before you take the wires off, look at what you've got. IIf the fixture and the wiring in the house is newer, you'll see a white wire wired to a white wire and a black wire (and maybe a blue one) wired to a black wire. You may see the green, or grounding wire, or it may be just tucked away somewhere. If your fixture is not color coded, but your house wiring is, get some masking tape and a sharpie and label which fixture wire was attached to which color wiring in the house. If your neither your fixture nor your house wiring was color coded, then you're dealing with a very simple fixture and the direction of the flow of current is not such a big deal. Simple light fixtures with simple switches in them can be like that. So after everything is labeled, go ahead and disconnect the wires. If you're not replacing the fixture with something newer, make sure you wire-nut the loose wires in the wall and put a nice, solid, blank cover plate over the box in the wall. Ok, now comes the fun part. TO WIRE UP THE FIXTURE: seriously, the easiest way to do it is to go to a local hardware store, old fixture in hand, and ask somebody to show you what to do. Once you've done it once, you'll find out it's SUPER DUPER EASY and you'll be fine. You can pick up really cool fixtures from Habitat for Humanity "ReStores" which sell salvaged building supplies. If you totally disassemble a light fixture, rub it down a little with steel wool, and spray a few coats of rustoleum on it, you can get some pretty jazzy fixtures for very, very little cost. Take lots of pics with your digital camera while reverse engineering to help you in the reassembly state. This can be fun to do! I've converted some ugly old dark metallic and shiny brass finished fixtures to plug-ins - wall sconces make great reading lamps that way. ANd the ReStore has all kinds of funky globes for the light fixtures for just a few bucks each. Have fun! As always, if you are in doubt about what to do, the best advice anyone should give you is to call a licensed electrician to advise what work is needed.Before you do any work yourselfon electrical circuits, equipment or appliances,always use a test meter to ensure the circuit is, in fact, de-energized.IF YOU ARE NOT ALREADY SURE YOU CAN DO THIS JOBSAFELY AND COMPETENTLYREFER THIS WORK TO QUALIFIED PROFESSIONALS.
If this is an electrical installation that needs to comply with the National Electrical Code, I'd advise you to read the code book article 310. It's not exactly easy to summarize, there are many ins and outs. For NEC purposes you would likely size according to Table 310.16. If you're experimenting, or just want some math to figure out what you need, check out NEC Chapter 9, Table 8. It lists the specific resistance per length of wire for different wire sizes. You can use this to determine how much resistance your circuit will have to overcome. As far as formulas, everything is based on Ohm's law. It is: Voltage (in Volts)=Current (in Amps) x Resistance (in Ohms). also: Current = Voltage divided by Resistance Resistance = Voltage divided by Current For example, NEC rules aside: If you have a 1.5 amp load at 120 volts, 500 feet away from your voltage source, that gives you 1000 feet round trip. If you were to use #18 copper, it's 8.08 ohms per 1000 feet. Dividing 120 (volts) by 8.08 (ohms) gives you 14.85 (amps). This wire's resistance will allow 14.85 amps to flow @ 120v, and your circuit is only 1.5 amps @ 120v. Of course, this would most likely not be allowed in your application by the NEC, as the smallest wire permissible for general use is #14. #18 is commonly used for low current loads, such as a fluorescent lighting ballast, and in this application it is permissible. Here is a way you can calculate the answer: First, You must determine how much voltage drop your device can tolerate. The NEC suggests no more than 3% drop for branch circuits. I will use 3% in the example. 3% of 120V is 3.6V, so the wiring run must drop no more than 3.6V. Now calculate the maximum resistance of the wiring run using R=E/I (resistance = voltage divided by current). Your example uses 1.5A, so let's use that. R = 3.6V / 1.5A R = 2.4 ohms Remember, use the voltage dropped across the wiring divided by the current through the wiring to get resistance of the wiring. Now, consult a table of wire resistance per size, such as NEC Chapter 9. The resistance in the table will be for a standard length, such as 1000 feet, so you will need to factor for your length. Remember to add both wires because the current has to make the round trip! Example: My distance from breaker to load is 350 feet. Double this because there are two wires = 700 feet. The 700 feet of wire can have no more than 2.4 ohms of resistance, so 1000 feet of the same wire can have no more than 3.43 ohms: 2.4 * (1000 / 700) = 3.43 Check your table for a wire that has 3.43 ohms per 1000 feet or less of resistance. According to my table, #14 copper has a resistance of 3.07 ohms per thousand, and will do nicely. I did not use your example of a 500 foot run, because it worked out to 1000 feet of wire, too easy and nothing to learn! #14 is normally good for 15 amps, so in this case we are not using it because we need the current capacity, but because we need to minimize voltage drop over a huge distance. Now, just for fun, let's reverse engineer your example using #18 wire to see what performance we could expect: #18 = 8.08 ohms per 1000 feet. Wiring run = 1000 feet (500 * 2) Voltage drop (E=IR): E = 1.5A * 8.08ohms E = 12.12V Voltage delivered to the load = 120 - 12.12 = 107.88V
Thévenin's theorem for linear electrical networks states that any combination of voltage sources, current sources, and resistors with two terminals is electrically equivalent to a single voltage source V and a single series resistor R #wikipediaactually i will explain you the way to solve problems applying this theorem consider a large network and in that network assume any resistance R about which you are asked o find the current and voltage-drop. now follow the steps below carefully1. remove the specific resistor from the circuit (open the resistor) and find the voltage across both the points(or even parallel to both the points) where the resistor is opened this is called VTH (this is called thevenin's voltage).Also dont forget to open the current sources if present.2. now to calculate the effective resistance as seen from the opened resistor short all the voltage sources and open all the current sources. and assume an arbitrary voltage V in the place of the opened resistor find current through the branch by mesh analysis and the ratio of voltage and current gives you the effective resistance fo the circuit as seen from the opened resistor. this is called Rth (thevenin resistance).now , after getting the values of VTH,RTH construct a circuit in which the given resistance R and RTH arein series with the voltage source VTH , and the so called found current is the current flowing through R in the actual circuit
they make it so you can plug in lights for decorations. That is called a receptacle, not a plugin, right?
This is how to view your plug-ins: f10 > tools > Plug-ins
plugs-ins rarely updated
plugs-ins rarely updated
What are the functions of web browser without the addition of plug-ins?
Web browser plug-ins do not keep track of the sites that you have visited.
They are very useful.
I believe that they can be called add-ons, plug-ins, or extensions.
no, unfortunatly not
Plug ins are needed in order to keep certain extensions of a search engine operating and are often used jointly without the user realizing it. Plug ins help with search engine speed, virus protection, video playback , graphics and document processing.
Plug ins
You can download it at www.ngemu.com; find PCSX2, select plug-ins, choose your good plug-ins and download it.