Depends on what you consider better? If a bladder fails you need to rush out and get a new one if a galvanized tank gets floooded you can drain it and your back in business
well galvanized metal is nothing more than zinc coated steel. Zinc melts at 787.1 F and steel melts at roughly 1200 F depending on the quality of the steel. So yes you can melt a galvanized nail.
Yes, the reason for this is PVC pipes do not last as long and galvanised piping can survive in any kind of weather climate. Depends.. Water quality, sun exposure, climate and flow rates
Galvanized iron is iron coated with a thin layer of zinc...the reason for this is the the zinc is oxidizes easier than the iron so even if the layer of zinc is broken the zinc will oxidize before the iron...... Gotta love the Chem...-dimes- Galvanized iron is iron coated with a thin layer of zinc...the reason for this is the the zinc is oxidizes easier than the iron so even if the layer of zinc is broken the zinc will oxidize before the iron...... Gotta love the Chem...-dimes-
when height & Dia ratio is less than 1 that is tank otherwise silo
Hi: Good question with many possible answers and one likely one. The valve is corroded at its seat face and leaking. Most likely needing replacement or re-machined seat face and matching seal. Hot water tends to do this a good bit. Be careful : let the thing completely cool and depressurise before you touch it. Never guess, heat energy stored in water is massive and will scald you faster than that 500 lb fish through your best hook. jimiwane >>>>>>>>>>>> Perhaps a problem with the expansion tank such as a bad bladder or an air leak if it`s not a bladder type of tank.
I would be curious to know the answer to this question also so I hope someone who knows something about the subject answers soon.
Stainless steel is much better than galvanized for use as a zip-line.
Galvanized steel is better for plumbing in a bathroom sink. It lasts a lot longer than PVC.
It depends on what you want to do with it. Galvanisation usually involves zinc anyway.
If it's a bladder tank, use two pounds less than the cut in pressure.
NO. They are separate parts of the system and if the bladder tank is in good shape there is no need to change it. Greedy well companies will often try this on, as they are in the business of making money and generally their ethics are somwhat lower than a shark's.
Not necessarily. Most bladder tanks will work up to 80 PSI and most homes on well systems don't go higher than 60 PSI. If your bladder tank, pump and pressure switch are all in good shape then you can raise the pressure easily by adjusting the pressure switch and pumping more air into the tank. tank should have 28 or 38 psi residual air - pressure switch 'on' should be 2 PSI higher than tank. - If your pressure has been getting lower, then it's possible the bladder is losing air. If this is the case you can pump air in to help temporarily till a new tank is fitted.
You have to replace the tankANS 2 - It depends on the size and make of the tank. Smaller than 33 gallon are not possible to replace. If it's larger than about 40 gallon, most can be replaced through the baseplate. -Over 60 gallons, all that I've seen are replaceable through the baseplate.
Turn off the pump, open a faucet and let all the pressure out of the system. Using a tire gauge, check the pressure in the bladder tank. Add or subtract air to make the tanks pressure two pounds less than the turn on pressure of the pump.
Sounds like you have a "water logged " ptressure tank. Switch pump off and drain water almost to bottom, then check air pressure at top nipple. if it's less than 20 psi or so, that's your problem. Try pumping it at the top with a small compressor. Put 30 psi in then turn on pump and see if it's better. If it's a bladder tank there are possibly pin holes in bladder.
The water pressure is controlled by your pressure switch and the tank residual air. If there is less or low pressure with more than one faucet do a test. 1. switch off the pump. 2 drain the tank through regular faucet, then measure air pressure on nipple at top of tank, if it is less than 26-28 psi that is your problem and may mean the bladder is shot. It can be recharged with a small compressor to 26-28 psi. but this will only last a few weeks if bladder is faulty.The water pressure is controlled by your pressure switch and the tank residual air. If there is less or low pressure with more than one faucet do a test. 1. switch off the pump, drain the tank through regular faucet, then measure air pressure on nipple at top of tank, if it is less than 26-28 psi that is your problem and may mean the bladder is shot. It can be recharged with a small compressor to 26-28 psi. but this will only last a few weeks if bladder is faulty.
Depending on the condition of the bladder tank sometimes you can add more air to it for a temporary fix, but ultimately you will have to replace it. Press in the air valve on top to see if any water comes out, if so then the bladder is water logged. Depending on the tank, the bladder can sometimes be removed and replaced. The bladder is about a third the cost of a new tank. A temporary fix would be to add air pressure. Unfortunately, air is quite soluble in water, so it will eventually be dissolved away. Well, a water tank doesn't *need* a bladder, assuming the inlet/outlet for the water is on the bottom of the tank. You can charge the tank with air, and it will work. Eventually, the air charge will run out and you will have to recharge it. The house I grew up in had a bladderless water tank and it was my job to recharge it every six months. The house I live in now has a irrigation system that uses an old water heater as a storage tank. This is how I charge them: 1) Let the others in the house know aht you're doing. 2) Shut off power to the well. 3) If you have a valve to shut off the rest of the house from the tank close it. 4) Drain all the water out of the tank. 5) Close all the faucets in the system. 6) Charge the system with air up to the preset value. 2psi below pump cut-in is a happy value, if you don't have a number from your manufacturer. 7) Turn the pump on. It should fill the tank normally. 8) Turn water back on to the house. Eventually the air charge will be absorbed into the water. As I mentioned above, a bladder isn't necessairy, it just prevents you from needing to recharge the system every few months. If you have a large tank, rent an air compressor. I can tell you first-hand pumping up a 40 gallon tank with a bicycle pump sucks. Some tanks have replaceable bladder and some don't. Check with the manufacter to find out. Adding air to a failed badder tank will get you by but I have seen the bladder sag to the bottom of the tank and close off the inlet on the tank.