If you are referring to the stem packing, you should be able to do it with no problem under pressure. Shut the valve off, take off the handle, then the nut with the packing in it, remove the old packing, replace it and reinstall the nut and handle. Open the faucet completely and that should be it.. Some valves use a rubber formed packing instead of the graphite or Teflon rope packing. Generally you can use either in place of the rubber or use a small amount around the stem with the old rubber.
With the faucet shut off, take the handle off and under it is a nut around the stem. There is either an O ring under the nut, a fiber washer or stem packing depending on what type of faucet it is. Replace which ever it has and that should fix it. If your faucet is a screw type, the handle turns several time when opening it, you can probably take the nut off, wrap two or three wraps of stem packing around the stem, clockwise looking down on it and replace the nut and tighten. This will compress the packing around the stem without replacing the cone washer in the nut or all of the old packing.
A retaining nut could be the packing gland nut on a valve stem or the nut used on a flare or compression fitting
The packing is located under the handle there is either a stuffing box or a nut over the valve stem
Because ball valves stem can't rise. It turns 90° but it doesn't rise. Back seat test ( appicable for gate and globe valves only) can be carried out by means of the full opening of the valve. Once the valve is in full open position the stem should be in contact with the bonnet ( generally hardfaced on that area) , in a manner that a sealing between bonnet and stem allows the packing to be replaced with the pressure inside the valve. Of course this is possible only because the stem rises. In the ball valves ( standard) the stem only rotate 90° , then the back seat test can't be done.
If you are referring to the stem packing, you should be able to do it with no problem under pressure. Shut the valve off, take off the handle, then the nut with the packing in it, remove the old packing, replace it and reinstall the nut and handle. Open the faucet completely and that should be it.. Some valves use a rubber formed packing instead of the graphite or Teflon rope packing. Generally you can use either in place of the rubber or use a small amount around the stem with the old rubber.
If it is dripping it is the washer, if it is coming out around the stem that is the packing needing to be replaced or some faucets have fiber cone in them that serves as packing around the stem. If your faucet is a 1/4 turn handle you need to turn the water off either at the sink or the main. If the handle screws in and out one or more complete turns you can do this with the water supply on. Shut the faucet off, remove the handle and any trim ring or cone under it that covers the stem sticking up. There should be a nut around the base of the stem. Unscrew this nut without turning the faucet on. In the nut underneath you will either have stem packing, which is a thick graphite or teflon string or a fiber cone. replace it with new and reassemble the faucet. If using packing and it still leaks after tightening, you can either tighten it a little more to compress the packing or just add a couple more layers of packing.
With the faucet shut off, take the handle off and under it is a nut around the stem. There is either an O ring under the nut, a fiber washer or stem packing depending on what type of faucet it is. Replace which ever it has and that should fix it. If your faucet is a screw type, the handle turns several time when opening it, you can probably take the nut off, wrap two or three wraps of stem packing around the stem, clockwise looking down on it and replace the nut and tighten. This will compress the packing around the stem without replacing the cone washer in the nut or all of the old packing.
The purpose of the packing nut on a hose bib is to create a watertight seal and prevent leaks by compressing a packing material around the stem of the bib.
If you notice a water valve leaking from the stem, you should first try tightening the packing nut on the valve stem. If that doesn't stop the leak, you may need to replace the packing or the entire valve. It's important to address the issue promptly to prevent further damage and water waste.
If you notice a shut off valve leaking at the stem, you should first try tightening the packing nut around the stem. If that doesn't stop the leak, you may need to replace the packing or the entire valve. It's important to address the issue promptly to prevent further damage and water waste.
Valve stem packing is used to prevent leaks around the valve stem in industrial valves. It helps maintain a tight seal, which is crucial for the efficient operation of valves by preventing the loss of fluids or gases. This ensures that the valve functions properly and minimizes the risk of equipment damage or safety hazards.
The purpose of a packing nut in a plumbing system is to create a watertight seal around a valve stem or pipe, preventing leaks and ensuring the smooth operation of the system.
The adult stem cells are better than embryonic stem cells in a very few cases. One way they are better is that the adult stem cells can be transplanted back into the adult patient and grown. The body will not reject its own stem cells.
Piping hand book decribes that a spacer ring used in the lantern ring type of packing chamer to permit lubrication of the packing, purging of the shaft or stem, or a leak-off system.
A retaining nut could be the packing gland nut on a valve stem or the nut used on a flare or compression fitting
On older modelsBehind the valve stem sleeve and escutcheon there is usually a packing gland nut which can be tightened with a valve stem socket wrench designed for the make and model of shower control your asking about..