The formula you are looking for is, R = Volts (squared)/Watts.
Assume the rating of 100W refers to operation on a supply of 117 volts.Power = (voltage) x (current)Current = (power) / (voltage) = 100/117 = 0.855 ampere (rounded)Power = (voltage)2 / (resistance)Resistance = (voltage)2 / (power) = (117)2 / 100 = 136.89 ohms
The formula you are looking for is E = W/I.
In the neon flash lamp experiment, the resistance of the lamp is very low, often in the range of a few ohms. When measuring low resistance, the resistance of the connecting wires and contacts becomes significant and can interfere with the accuracy of the measurement. These additional resistances create uncertainties in determining the exact value of the low resistance of the lamp. Additionally, the behaviour of the neon lamp itself, which is a non-linear device, further complicated the measurement process. Therefore, it is challenging and difficult to accurately determine the precise value of low resistance using this method.
Assuming the new lamp is in series, the ammeter reading falls because the total resistance has increased. By how much depends on how the lamp resistance depends on voltage. If the lamp is added in parallel to the first, then the ammeter reading doubles.
This seeming contradiction occurs on most physics tests. But it's true, and here's why: Lamp A by itself has power of P=IxE ; 60=IxE ; so I=60/220=0.27 amperes. Thus the lamp has a resistance E=IxR ; R=220/0.27 = 807 ohms. Lamp B by itself has a power of P=IxE ; so I=100/220 = 0.45 amperes. Thus the lamp has a resistance E=IxR ; R=220/0.45 = 489 ohms. Since the resistance in series is added up, the total resistance is 807+489 =1296 ohms and the current I= E/R = 220/1296 = 0.17..... Phew... Since P= IxIxR For 60W lamp A, P= 0.17 x 0.17 x 807 = 23.3 watts. For 100W lamp B, P=0.17 x 0.17 x 489 = 14.1 watts. So, when they are wired in series, the bright one and the dim one appear to be reversed as to their respective "normal rated powers". Their normal rated powers are only correct when both of them are supplied with their normal rated voltage of 220 volts, i.e. when they are wired in parallel. This makes a lot of sense if you think about it.
NO. Two 60W lamps will use 120W - which is more than 100W !!
42 ohm
For general calculations VA is the same as Watts.
Power is measured in Watts, power (Watts) = E (volts) x I (current - amps) current is determined by the internal resistance (R) of the lightbulb, the lower the resistance the more current will flow. 120v x 0.5a = 60W 120V x 0.83a = 100W the 100W lightbulb will draw more current We also have Ohm's law: E(volts) = I (amps) x R (ohms) Household voltage stays the same at 120v we have for a 100w lamp: 120v = I x R R = 120v/0.83 amps R = 144.6 ohms for a 60w lamp: 120v = I x R R = 120v/0.5 amps R = 240 ohms The higher watt lamp has lower resistance.
Assume the rating of 100W refers to operation on a supply of 117 volts.Power = (voltage) x (current)Current = (power) / (voltage) = 100/117 = 0.855 ampere (rounded)Power = (voltage)2 / (resistance)Resistance = (voltage)2 / (power) = (117)2 / 100 = 136.89 ohms
The formula you are looking for is E = W/I.
Probably not. Sodium light fixtures generally have a "ballast".
Resistance is Volts over Current 11 Ohm = 110Volt / 10 Amp
It is not recommended to rewire a 240v lamp light fitting or appliance to operate on 110v. This can be dangerous and may lead to overheating, electrical fires, or damage to the device. It is safer and more practical to use a voltage converter or purchase a new device designed to work with 110v.
A 100W incandescent lightbulb is rated this way because it consumes 100W of power to produce a given amount of lumens. The wattage is a power number derived from the voltage supplied multiplied by the current that will flow through the filament. Consequently, the filament acts as a resistive component and will always draw the rated current when supplied with the rated voltage. Now, lets say you have a light bulb rated at 100W for 430V and you want to use it in a 110V 40W fixture. This would be an example of a 100W bulb drawing only 23W. Assuming the screw base is the same, there is no electrical reason it couldn't be used because the voltage rating of the bulb exceeds the supply and the current draw is lower than the maximum rating of the lamp. But what of fluorescents? This is a no go. You cannot run a 430V ballast on 110V and expect it to work correctly.
In a series circuit, the total resistance is the sum of the individual resistances. So, the total resistance of the 3.0 lamp and 6.0 lamp connected in series would be 3.0 + 6.0 = 9.0 ohms.
If you have a lamp, you can assume that the resistance of the lamp when it is under power will follow the ohms law. BUT, one thing you must remember is, when a lamp is under load, it is glowing HOT. When metal is HOT, the molculoes of the meals are in much more active state. When this happens, the resistance will increase. Conversely, when the lamp is NOT on ON state, the filaments are cold. Moleculoes in the filaments are not as active. Thus, the resistance is lower. There is almost 10 to 1 difference in resistance from hot to cold. Taking out a multimeter and measuring the resistance of the lamp will not help you determine the resistance of the lamp when it is actually under load (with voltage applied) Really, the only thing you can do is to measure the voltage, measure the current, then arrive at the resistance mathmatically.