an anomaly in the reflectogram can be caused by necking if the curve deflects first in the direction of the hammer blow, and then in the opposite direction before returning to normal. in the European usage, the hammer blow is plotted downwards. thus a necking in the pile causes the reflectogram to deflect first downwards and then upwards. if the anomaly is in the upper half of the pile, it can repeat itself one or more times, depending on the pile profile and soil properties. all consequent reflections will have the same characteristics as the first one - downward and then upward.
You can use hammer, press or vibrationdrivers. The most common are hammer and vibrationdrivers, which pound on or vibrate the pile to sink it into the ground. Where noise or vibration would be a no-no, pressdrivers can be employed.Hammer drivers can be operated mechanically, hydraulically or pneumatically. In all types of hammer driver, the ram is raised in a slide and allowed to drop on the head of the pile. Repeat until the pile is at the required depth. Make sure you are wearing your ear protectors if you're nearby. Hammer driving can also have a detrimental effect on nearby buildings, as the seismic waves generated are powerful. Typically the ground around the driver will jump a few inches with each blow.(There is a method in which the ram is constructed to form a single cylinder diesel engine but I'm unfamiliar with this technique. Most of the pile drivers I've seen were hydraulically raised hammer or mechanical vibration types.)Vibration drivers operate on a different principle. Usually there is a hydraulic arm and a motor driving an eccentric cam or a shaft which is weighted to put it out of balance; the vibration causes the earth to assume liquid-like properties and the pile slowly glides in under the pressure of the pile driver arm. This is nowhere near as noisy as hammer driving. Unfortunately the powerful seismic vibration can have a bad effect on nearby buildings and can be quite unpleasant for nearby humans.Press drivers use (usually) hydraulic brute force to push the pile in; doing it like this requires Big Science but has the advantage of being relatively quiet and kind to nearby foundations and people.For driving smaller pilings or for shoring trenches, the bucket of a digger can be used to good effect. Just raise it up and bring it down hard.
One method to fasten timber to a concrete wall: You will need: * a hammer drill * a masonry bit * a timber bit * a pencil or marker * concrete fasteners: these could be expanding bolts that will grip the sides of the hole drilled into the concrete as they are tightened; bolts set into epoxy resin in the drilled hole in the concrete; or screws tightened into plugs hammered into holes drilled in the concrete * a plumb line or level * measuring tape or ruler # Measure the required location of the timber on the wall # Check with plumb line or level # Mark the location # Mark and drill with the timber bit at least two holes for fasteners (the number required will depend on the load to be carried and the size of the timber) in the timber # Locate the timber on the wall and mark the corresponding locations on the concrete through the holes in the timber # At these locations drill into the concrete with a hammer drill and masonry bit the correct depth and diameter for the fasteners you have # clear all dust and residue from the holes # Attach the timber using the fasteners. Note builders epoxy sets very quickly Timber should be separated from concrete by a moisture barrier such as damp proof course, plastic membrane etc to prevent any condensation on the concrete causing moisture buildup and rot in the timber
what is answer timber conversion
isolated steel pile
A timber pile is not soil, it's a pile of timber.If a substance does not support plant growth or have the capability of supporting plant growth, it is not soil.If the timber pile decomposes to a point where the remaining organic matter can support plant growth, it would be considered an organic soil, provided the layer of organic matter was thick enough. Organic soils are known as Histosols in US Soil Taxonomy.
what is the result of the Battle of the Windmill
cut down trees for timber and smash rocks for stone. (Hammer for stone, Axe for timber) Go to hmhelper.blogspot.com for any other questions and email him questions at hmhelper@gmail.com
A pile of wood is commonly referred to as a "woodpile." This term typically describes a stacked or organized collection of firewood or timber. In some contexts, it may also be called a "cord" if it measures a specific volume, typically 128 cubic feet. Another term used for a large pile of logs is a "log pile."
an anomaly in the reflectogram can be caused by necking if the curve deflects first in the direction of the hammer blow, and then in the opposite direction before returning to normal. in the European usage, the hammer blow is plotted downwards. thus a necking in the pile causes the reflectogram to deflect first downwards and then upwards. if the anomaly is in the upper half of the pile, it can repeat itself one or more times, depending on the pile profile and soil properties. all consequent reflections will have the same characteristics as the first one - downward and then upward.
when the pile of wood shows up over timber smurf's hut, collect it. :)
You go on the hammer icon then click on the flower icon at the top. If you scroll across you will see a log and if you place it near Timber Smurf's hut it will give you bonus xp and coins. The log costs 10 Smurf coins.
You can use hammer, press or vibrationdrivers. The most common are hammer and vibrationdrivers, which pound on or vibrate the pile to sink it into the ground. Where noise or vibration would be a no-no, pressdrivers can be employed.Hammer drivers can be operated mechanically, hydraulically or pneumatically. In all types of hammer driver, the ram is raised in a slide and allowed to drop on the head of the pile. Repeat until the pile is at the required depth. Make sure you are wearing your ear protectors if you're nearby. Hammer driving can also have a detrimental effect on nearby buildings, as the seismic waves generated are powerful. Typically the ground around the driver will jump a few inches with each blow.(There is a method in which the ram is constructed to form a single cylinder diesel engine but I'm unfamiliar with this technique. Most of the pile drivers I've seen were hydraulically raised hammer or mechanical vibration types.)Vibration drivers operate on a different principle. Usually there is a hydraulic arm and a motor driving an eccentric cam or a shaft which is weighted to put it out of balance; the vibration causes the earth to assume liquid-like properties and the pile slowly glides in under the pressure of the pile driver arm. This is nowhere near as noisy as hammer driving. Unfortunately the powerful seismic vibration can have a bad effect on nearby buildings and can be quite unpleasant for nearby humans.Press drivers use (usually) hydraulic brute force to push the pile in; doing it like this requires Big Science but has the advantage of being relatively quiet and kind to nearby foundations and people.For driving smaller pilings or for shoring trenches, the bucket of a digger can be used to good effect. Just raise it up and bring it down hard.
A pile of wrappers!A pile of wrappers!A pile of wrappers!A pile of wrappers!
If someone driving in fence-posts with a hammer is observed at a distance of several hundred yards, it will be apparent that the sound of the hammer striking the post is not coincident with the action; it will be heard as the hammer is being raised for the next stroke. The same effect can be observed when watching a pile-driver at a similar distance.
One method to fasten timber to a concrete wall: You will need: * a hammer drill * a masonry bit * a timber bit * a pencil or marker * concrete fasteners: these could be expanding bolts that will grip the sides of the hole drilled into the concrete as they are tightened; bolts set into epoxy resin in the drilled hole in the concrete; or screws tightened into plugs hammered into holes drilled in the concrete * a plumb line or level * measuring tape or ruler # Measure the required location of the timber on the wall # Check with plumb line or level # Mark the location # Mark and drill with the timber bit at least two holes for fasteners (the number required will depend on the load to be carried and the size of the timber) in the timber # Locate the timber on the wall and mark the corresponding locations on the concrete through the holes in the timber # At these locations drill into the concrete with a hammer drill and masonry bit the correct depth and diameter for the fasteners you have # clear all dust and residue from the holes # Attach the timber using the fasteners. Note builders epoxy sets very quickly Timber should be separated from concrete by a moisture barrier such as damp proof course, plastic membrane etc to prevent any condensation on the concrete causing moisture buildup and rot in the timber
Make sure that any sawdust you use is sourced from treatment free timber. As timber rots it uses some nitrogen, so ensure that the mulch has a nitrogen source like green waste (leaves, grass clippings) or rotted manure mixed in to balance this.