The "AF" stands for the Frame Ampere rating, so in this case will be 400 Amp Frame. The "AT" stands for Trip Ampere rating, and in this question will be 300 Amp Trip.
To correctly size a lighting circuit, you must know the total power that the circuit will draw, in watts. For example, if there is 7 lights on a circuit, each light consumes 100W, that gives you a total of 700W on the circuit. Then you must know the voltage that is being supplied to the circuit. For this example, 120VAC will be used. To calculate the current needs for sizing the breaker, use the formula P=E*I, where P=watts, E=voltage, I=current/amps. So, in this example, P=700, E=120, I is unknown. After working the formula, you have an answer of 5.83 A. Breakers generally come in sizing increments of 5A.....5A, 10A, 15A, 20A, etc. The answer for this example was 5.83A, so the 5A breaker is obviously not enough. The next size is 10A, which is more than the calculation, but you must also consider that breakers are designed to operate at 80% capacity for periods of time over about 3 hours. So for an office atmosphere where the lights will definitely be on for longer periods of time than residential (in most cases), you would need to make sure that the total Amps needed is equal to or less than the 80% of the breaker size you have chosen. A 10A breaker is only designed to provide 8A of capacity for longer periods of time. So for this example, a 10A circuit breaker would be properly sized. You must also abide by the NEC code for maximum number of fixtures on any particular circuit. Refer to NEC for that information. If you were to change the light fixtures to a larger size, such as 200W each, you would then find that you need to also change the breaker and possibly the wire size that is run through the circuit, to maintain compliance with NEC.
If the main breaker has ground fault detection, and the fault is a ground fault, then only the main may trip. Also if the fault is a direct short, the fault current may be several thousand amps, much greater than the trip point of both breakers. Breakers have an I^2T curve (current squared-time), which is an indication of how fast the breaker will trip at a given overload. When both breakers are overloaded, the breaker with the faster I^2T rating at that current level will trip first. This would be an indication that the breakers are improperly specified or adjusted.
i had the same problem, sounded like the flasher was clicking. turns out it was the multi-function switch (turn signal/cruise ctrl/highbeam/washer switch). it was about 300 bucks to have replaced. couldn't do it myself.
If the person working on a circuit is unqualified, any voltage is dangerous! If you have not been properly trained, stay away!
Incoming power goes through the main breaker to the lugs feeding all branch breakers/fuses. Shutting off the main breaker shuts off power to all other breakers/fuses downstream. This may not match with NEC's definition. You should check that too.
A 300 watt bulb requires a circuit breaker of at least 2.5 amps. This can be determined by dividing the power (300 watts) by the voltage (120 volts). However, considering normal breaker sizes, a 5 amp breaker would be sufficient for a 300 watt bulb.
it's in the trunk by the spare tire (fuse #18) just found it myself shane
If the motor starts without tripping the breaker and when the motor picks up the load and the breaker doesn't trip, just leave it. Code states that motors should be protected by 2.5 times the FLA to allow for start up inrush current which can go as high as 300%. In this case 14 x 2.5 = 35 amps. There not being a breaker of that size go to the next highest, that being a 40 amp breaker. The motor should have additional overload protection on the circuit set to the FLA of the motor and not depend on the breaker to provide overload protection.
There are 2 fuse boxes in these cars. One is in the trunk under the mat where the spare tire is and there is another under the hood. I believe the one your looking for will be in the trunk.
300 VAC stands for 300 volts AC, which is the measure of electrical potential difference in an alternating current (AC) circuit. It signifies the peak voltage that the circuit can reach.
No!You cannot simply replace a breaker with a larger one. You would have to tear out ALL of the wiring and replace it with larger. If you just install a larger breaker, you will most likely start a fire, as the existing wiring cannot handle the increased current. You must find the reason the existing breaker is tripping and fix it. If the circuit is overloaded, you will have to either move some of the load to a different circuit, or have the WHOLE circuit upgraded, including wiring and breaker.You will need a licensed electrician to do any repairs or upgrades. You are not qualified to do this work.IF YOU ARE NOT ALREADY SURE YOU CAN DO THIS JOBSAFELY AND COMPETENTLYREFER THIS WORK TO QUALIFIED PROFESSIONALS.If you do this work yourself, always turn off the powerat the breaker box/fuse panel BEFORE you attempt to do any work AND always use a meter or voltage indicatorto insure the circuit is, in fact, de-energized.
For a 300 amp three phase circuit breaker, you should use wire that is rated for at least 300 amps. The wire gauge needed will depend on the material (copper or aluminum) and the installation method (conduit or cable), so it's recommended to consult with the National Electrical Code (NEC) or a qualified electrician for the specific wire size required. Using the correct wire size is crucial to ensure safety and prevent overheating.
Yes, it can.
A 250 kcmil copper feeder cable would be appropriate for a 300 amp circuit breaker when stepping up from 220V to 380V. It is always recommended to consult with a qualified electrician or engineer to ensure the correct cable size for your specific application and wiring conditions.
The book "Stormbreaker" by Anthony Horowitz has 234 pages.
A typical PC might use 200-300 watts, a laptop might use 40-60 watts. A 30-amp circuit can supply 3600 watts on a 120 v system (US) or 7200 watts on a 240 v system (Europe), so 8 typical/average computers should be all right.
To correctly size a lighting circuit, you must know the total power that the circuit will draw, in watts. For example, if there is 7 lights on a circuit, each light consumes 100W, that gives you a total of 700W on the circuit. Then you must know the voltage that is being supplied to the circuit. For this example, 120VAC will be used. To calculate the current needs for sizing the breaker, use the formula P=E*I, where P=watts, E=voltage, I=current/amps. So, in this example, P=700, E=120, I is unknown. After working the formula, you have an answer of 5.83 A. Breakers generally come in sizing increments of 5A.....5A, 10A, 15A, 20A, etc. The answer for this example was 5.83A, so the 5A breaker is obviously not enough. The next size is 10A, which is more than the calculation, but you must also consider that breakers are designed to operate at 80% capacity for periods of time over about 3 hours. So for an office atmosphere where the lights will definitely be on for longer periods of time than residential (in most cases), you would need to make sure that the total Amps needed is equal to or less than the 80% of the breaker size you have chosen. A 10A breaker is only designed to provide 8A of capacity for longer periods of time. So for this example, a 10A circuit breaker would be properly sized. You must also abide by the NEC code for maximum number of fixtures on any particular circuit. Refer to NEC for that information. If you were to change the light fixtures to a larger size, such as 200W each, you would then find that you need to also change the breaker and possibly the wire size that is run through the circuit, to maintain compliance with NEC.