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Italian food arrived in Australia when Italians arrived in Australia in the early 1900s, although initially their food was regarded with deep suspicion by Anglo-Celtic immigrants, who didn't regard themselves as immigrants, and who regarded squid as fishing bait. It wasn't until the seventies that Italian restaurants began to appear, as opposed to Italian cafes. which turned up in the sixties, though weren't patronized by Australians. Delicatessens came later. I recall in the seventies walking into a deli and asking for pasta. The assistant stared at me and pointed me towards a display of tinned spaghetti. Don't you want spaghetti? she demanded. No, I want fresh linguini and some bottles of passata, I said. She stared at me as though I was a possible terrorist. Oh, dear. Now we can buy food from all over the world, and this evening I'll order a delivery of veal tortellini with pesto and a tub of fresh-grated parmesan. How we've grown.

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