All nuts and bolts for any vehicle has a torque spec( for a racher I think it's 47 ft-lbs.). from the manufacturer a torque wrench is the suggested way, but everyone I know just uses a 1/2 cordless impact gun.
No, the rear axle shaft does not have an internal retainer clip. You remove the four nuts on the inside of the brake backing plate and remove the axle shaft with a slide hammer and hub adapter.
No, you remove the 4 nuts on the outside, and pull the axle shaft out with a slide hammer.
The engine, and rear axle would be the same/similar. Transmission would not.The engine, and rear axle would be the same/similar. Transmission would not.
Dana 35 or Dana 44
AnswerA sport model should have DANA 30 front axles and DANA 35 rear axles A DANA 44 axle could be ordered optional on the rear.
To tighten the chain on a Honda 3 wheeler, first loosen the rear axle bolts then turn the adjuster nuts clockwise to tighten. Finish by tightening the rear axle bolts.
Start by removing the rear brake lever. After that loosen the rear axle. The 17 mm nut is the only one that will spin, as the axle is essentially a big bolt. Once the axle is relatively loose, begin adjustments using the adjustment nuts on either side of the frame. There should be two separate 10 mm nuts on either side. Tighten the first on until your chain has the appropriate amount of slack (roughly 5/8''-1"). After you have them adjusted to where you want them, make sure both sides are evenly tightened. This will prevent wobbles and excessive tire wear. When you are finished with that, tighten the second 10 mm nut until it hits the first one snugly. Tighten up your axle, then put your rear brake back on. The rear brake will probably require adjustment when you are finished.
Jack up the rear of the quad (put a milk crate under it). Remove both wheels. Remove the chain. Apply the rear brake and loosen the nuts on the axle (right side). Remove the brake caliper & bracket. Remove the circlip, nuts and rotor. Slide the axle through the bearing carrier, from right to left (towards the chain and sprocket side
rear axle nut is 65 ft/lbs
loosen the rear axle and move the tire back
on the rear axle housing, sprocket side, there should be a large spanner nut. Loosen the two bolts that tighten the rear axle in the housing and turn that spanner nut. Not sure which direction, you should be able to figure that out.
Loosen the 2 bolts on the rear center section of the rear axle housing 1 on each side and turn the center section it is offset with the axle,
No, the rear axle shaft does not have an internal retainer clip. You remove the four nuts on the inside of the brake backing plate and remove the axle shaft with a slide hammer and hub adapter.
Torque spec's front axel nut is 44 ft-lb caliper upper bolt 25 ft-lb and lower bolt is 17 ft-lb..............Tighten the axel holder forward nuts first, then the rear nuts. Torque is 18 ft-lb. There you go, right from the book. Good luck.
The rear differential is where the driveshaft meets the axle. Its right in the middle of the axle and is about the size of a basketball.
Crawl under the truck on the driver's side. You will see a cable with a "turnbuckle" heading to the rear axle housing. Within this "turnbuckle", you will see two nuts on a threaded rod....loosen the furthest to the rear, this is known as a lock-nut. Then tighten the forward nut until the brakes hold to satisfaction, then tighten the rear nut up against the front nut, you will need two wrenches for this. once tight, you should be "good to go".
Axle seals