Check the appliance's specifications on the strip, tag or plate that is usually fixed either on the back or somewhere on the frame. On there you will find its required operating voltage and wattage that it draws.
If your home has 240 volt line voltage just divide the watts by the volts for the answer.
Example: a 2400 watt water heater for a 240 volt line using the formula watts / volts = amps would give you 10 amps. For a 120 volt appliance it would be 20 amps.
Try checking the heating element itself. Do this by removing it and using an ohm meter to check it for an "open" circuit condition. If the ohm meter reads infinite, then it is likely bad. If the water heater is only slow to heat, a very likely possibility is that you have an excess amount of sediment in the bottom of the tank, insulating the heating element from the water. Back flushing the tank will solve this problem. For more tips, check out the following web site: www.waterheaterrescue.com
To test and replace a heating element: # Turn off power at the Electrical Service Panel and post a sign warning others not to turn it on. # Remove the access panel on the electric water heater. # Disconnect one of the element wires and set a multimeter to RX1000 (resistance times 1,000). Touch one probe to an element mounting bolt and the other to each element terminal screw, in turn. If the tester displays anything but infinity (open circuit), replace the element. # If necessary, set the multimeter to RX1 and touch the probes to the terminal screws. If there is any resistance reading at all (closed circuit), then the element is good. If not, replace it. Both upper and lower elements are tested in the same manner. # To remove the element, first drain the heater. # Disconnect the remaining element wire. Remove the mounting bolts holding the element in place. Remove the element. # Replace the heating element with one of the same model, shape, and rating. Make sure you also replace any installation gaskets.
Assuming you are talking about a home water heater, there is a pressure relief valve above the hot water line - usually on a tee or an ell above where the hot water line comes out of the heater and usually leads to the floor and under the house. The valve is designed to relieve the pressure in the water heater when the water becomes too hot. The valve may have corroded and is stuck in the open position thereby releasing the hot water. You can feel the pipe that connects to the valve = if it is hot, it is leaking water; if it is cold, the problem lies elsewhere - maybe the thermostat could be set too low.
No. For an example using a 3500 watt element. The amperage through the element will be I = W/E, 3500/120 = 29 amps. The resistance of this 3500 watt element will be R = E/I, 120/29 = 4.13 ohms. Now using the 200 volts and finding the amperage I = E/R, 200/4.13 = 48 amps. The new wattage of the element has become W = A x V, 48 x 200 = 9600 watts. The element will not stand the increase in amperage and will burn open. To operate on 200 volts and still have a 3500 element in the tank you will have to find an element with a resistance of 12 ohms. I = W/E, 3500/200 = 17 amps. R = E/I = 200/17 = 12 ohms. This is a resistance three times more than the 120 volt element to achieve the 3500 watt rating.
Do you have hot water at other fixtures in the house? If not you have a water heater problem. If yes the Shower valve needs to be rebuilt if it is a bressure balanced faucet the concentration should be on the pressure balancing spool area of the faucet.
Piston heater element open.
The circuit is open. Wires could be disconnected/damaged or the heater element is burned out.
The heating element probably burned out causing the open circuit. The element needs to be submerged in coolant completely, all the time that it is plugged in.
You know it by touching and feeling the pipes on the hot water side; if they are hot, there is water running through the pipes and obviously the heater valve is open on hot side.
Try checking the heating element itself. Do this by removing it and using an ohm meter to check it for an "open" circuit condition. If the ohm meter reads infinite, then it is likely bad. If the water heater is only slow to heat, a very likely possibility is that you have an excess amount of sediment in the bottom of the tank, insulating the heating element from the water. Back flushing the tank will solve this problem. For more tips, check out the following web site: www.waterheaterrescue.com
To effectively clean sediment from your water heater, you can follow these steps: Turn off the power or gas supply to the water heater. Allow the water heater to cool down. Connect a garden hose to the drain valve at the bottom of the water heater. Open the pressure relief valve and then open the drain valve to let the water and sediment drain out. Flush the water heater by running cold water through it until the water runs clear. Close the drain valve and pressure relief valve, then turn the power or gas supply back on. Regularly flushing your water heater can help prevent sediment buildup and maintain its efficiency.
By heater element I am assuming you mean a heater core. If that is the case then you have one of two problems. Either the thermostat is stuck open and needs replacing or the heater temperature control valve is defective.
Yes! Connect a garden hose to the output valve of the water heater and open the water heater valve to put hot water into the kiddie pool. This is the fastest way to warm a children's pool.
By Andreina Urdaneta A clean water heater will heat and maintain water better and last longer. Once a year, flush your water heater, and in extreme hard water areas, at least twice a year. If you feel up to the challenge, here are some tips to help you in a basic cleaning. 1 Turn the water heater and the cold water supply to the water heater off. 2 Hook a high-quality garden hose to the drain valve, and place the other end in an area where hot water will not cause damage. 5. Open the drain valve. 6. Disconnect the cold water pipe on the top of the water heater. This step will let air into the water heater so it will drain. When the water heater is empty, close the drain. 8. Pour tile cleaner into the cold water, leave for a couple of hours and drain the detergent out of the tank. 10. Reconnect the cold water supply to the water heater. Open the cold water valve and let the water heater flush for a couple minutes. 12. Close the drain valve and open the hot water faucet nearest to the tank, and let the water heater fill. 13. When water starts to come out of that faucet, reopen the drain and let the water heater continue to rinse. After all the air is out of the water heater, turn it back on. Take care of your water heater, and it will take care of you. If you keep ignoring the task, your water heater may just leave you in the cold.
you need to check the resistance of the seat heater elment. each seat has an upper and lower element. your probably going to find an open heater element ckt. gm master tech
To properly flush an electric water heater, follow these steps: Turn off the power to the water heater. Shut off the cold water supply to the heater. Connect a garden hose to the drain valve at the bottom of the heater. Open a hot water faucet in the house to allow air into the system. Open the drain valve and let the water heater drain completely. Close the drain valve and remove the hose. Turn on the cold water supply and let the heater fill up. Once the tank is full, turn the power back on. Performing this process helps remove sediment buildup and maintain the efficiency of your electric water heater.
The hot water valve should always be open, so the hot water can exit the heater into the system. If your actually meaning opening the drain valve on the bottom of theater, the water in the heater will drain, starting with the hot water stored there, and then the cold water that is entering the tank to replace it will simplt flow out the bottom before being heated. Dpending on where the heater is located will denepnd on how much of a mess the ensuing flood will be.